There’s that moment on every vacation where, presumably after a long day of traveling, you finally catch your first glimpse of your destination and the endorphins kick in. I recall that feeling as a kid the first time I saw Cinderella’s castle in Disney World, and the same thing happened when I pulled up to Ashford Castle in Ireland as a fully grown adult.
The regal fanfare welcoming me and the van full of fellow journalists to the estate certainly helped set the mood, but there’s just a kind of energy in the air when you step onto the grounds at Ashford that I ascribe to the history and wonderment of the place.
I was invited on a press trip to experience the high-end accommodations that attract guests to Ashford from all over the world and keep them coming back for return visits. Having never been to Ireland, and somehow existing 30+ years on this earth without spending a night in a castle, it was a real no-brainer. Most kids grow up watching Disney movies and hearing fairytales imagining what it would be like residing in a castle living the most lavish life imaginable. I had the opportunity to make that dream a reality for three unforgettable nights.
Ashford has changed hands several times over its 800-year history, evolving with the arrival of each new owner. Originally constructed as a military stronghold for the de Burgo family, features like the French style chateau were added when the Browne family took possession in 1715. The Guinness family grew the estate to 26,000 acres after they purchased it in 1852 and added the property’s Victorian elements (among other things.) Ashford transitioned into a world class hotel after it was sold to Noel Huggard in 1939, but the expansions kept coming. At present time, the hotel boasts a 9-hole golf course, a cinema, the oldest falconry school in Ireland and an award-winning spa. Visitors can choose between six restaurants and three bars, so meal time never feels repetitive. Needless to say, Ashford has come a long way from its days as a military compound.
Historic hotels like this need to strike the right balance between honoring the past, but also embracing modern technology to offer guests the luxurious lifestyle they expect. Throughout all of Ashford’s expansions, there has been a commitment to preserve the castle’s history and allow remnants of the past to shine through no matter how many new amenities are introduced. Most notably, when Ashford became part of the Red Carnation Hotel group in 2013, the estate underwent a major refurbishment estimated to cost the equivalent of $47.8 million. As you make your way around the property (both inside and out,) you’ll come across nods to the old Ashford. For example, the double-headed eagle seen on the rooftop dates back to when the Browne family owned the estate and it represents their coat of arms. It’s worth spending an afternoon strolling the grounds looking out for these little easter eggs. They even repurposed the old boat shed on the premises, transforming it into a private cottage that guests can book to enjoy some quiet time away from the main building.
When I first arrived for my stay, I was immediately struck by the scenery. The gray stonework on the castle's exterior set behind a perfectly manicured lush green lawn overlooking Lough Corrib is one of the most photogenic views I have ever seen. It’s next to impossible to resist the temptation to view the whole thing behind a camera lens, but you should definitely take some time to keep your phone in your pocket and just appreciate your surroundings. With that in mind, I made time for myself during a free afternoon to meander through the many gardens cultivated by the Guinness family during their tenure at Ashford. The gardens have been given as much love and care over the years as the castle itself, with a major restoration that took place in the 1990s and ongoing upkeep in the time since then. You can easily lose track of time while making your way through the grounds, but there’s even more beauty to behold inside the walls of Ashford. Walking through doorways is like opening up a set of Russian nesting dolls, where each new reveal is another stunning sight to take in. By the time I was escorted to my room, I must’ve said “wow” to myself at least a dozen times. The rooms in the hotel (as well as the suites and cottage) are mostly individually designed with antique furniture, exquisite lighting fixtures and works of art that deserve their own write-up. I’d be remiss if I didn’t specifically call out the bed. If there’s one thing during my stay at Ashford that made me feel like a king, the bed was it. I usually have a hard time sleeping in a bed that isn’t mine when I travel, but the four-poster canopy bed complete with Egyptian Cotton bed linen was heaven on earth. I probably could’ve spent my whole trip taking in the scene from the comfort of my bed and gone home a (well-rested) happy camper. The room also included a gas fireplace, a canopy tub with heated floors in the bathroom and, perhaps my favorite part, a switchboard to control almost all of the features built into the bedside table. As glorious as the bed was, I can’t advocate for spending your time at the castle primarily in your room. There’s just too much exploring to do and too many breathtaking rooms to view…especially the dining rooms.
My first introduction to the food at Ashford was afternoon tea in Inglenook, a dining table in a small room adjacent to the intimidatingly elegant Connaught Room. We enjoyed an assortment of teas, finger sandwiches, scones, pastries and plenty of creams and jams to spread to our hearts’ content. Each guest at the table was presented with a 3-tier stand full of light bites specifically catered to our dietary needs. The special attention paid to all of our food restrictions throughout our stay by the hotel staff was truly remarkable. Every time we sat down for a meal, no matter the restaurant, our server knew exactly who couldn’t eat certain offerings. As for me, I’m not a salmon guy. It’s not an allergy…just a preference. I have tried it prepared many ways and I enjoy other fish, but salmon doesn’t do it for me. Normally I just select something else from the menu, but in several cases the staff went so far as to print special menus for me where I didn’t even have to read about their salmon offerings. Was it necessary? Absolutely not. But it’s those extra miles that make a stay here feel so special. Even during an off-site lunch that we did as part of Ashford’s “Meet the Makers” experience, two local chefs welcomed us into their home to sample their food and they served lamb alongside the salmon that was enjoyed by the rest of the group. I had no idea that salmon was a big thing in Ireland and at a certain point I started feeling like my fussiness was too much, but nobody seemed to give it a second thought. It was the same for everyone else in the group. Of all the dining offerings at Ashford, the meals in the George V Dining Room were top notch. The room was built to honor the then-future king of England when he visited the property in 1905. Every dish is beautifully plated, and every wine glass or morning cup of coffee stays filled. The live music playing during dinner service further enhances what is already a spectacular evening. It’s hard to leave that dining room without a full belly and a smile on your face. If I were arranging the ideal evening at Ashford, I’d recommend starting with a wine tasting in the cellar just before eating in the George V Dining Room and then end with a nightcap in the Prince of Wales Bar.
Although I have absolutely thoroughly enjoyed vacations in the past that revolved around eating and drinking, as I’m getting older I’m feeling more and more that traveling should be about new experiences. Guests at the hotel can pay an extra fee to participate in any number of on-site activities ranging from a nature walk with the resident bloodhounds to boating on the lake or zip-lining. The aforementioned Meet the Makers excursion is a road trip off premises to visit with local artisans and learn about their craft. The stops vary based on the interests of the guest. As an animal lover, I was immediately drawn to horseback riding and falconry. Although a more seasoned rider might not get as much enjoyment out of the slow moseying we did through the woods of the property on our horses, the pace was ideal for taking in the surroundings and, yes, snapping plenty of photos. I won’t pretend I didn’t feel posh as heck posing for a pic on horseback with the castle standing tall in the background. As fun as that was, the falconry school is really the must-visit attraction at Ashford. Strapping on a leather glove and bonding with my little hawk friend as we walked the grounds was exhilarating and without question, the thing that my friends and family ask about first when I talk about my time in Ireland. Watching the bird launch from my forearm and then fly into the trees before returning to me for a meaty treat on the glove was simply awesome. The instructors at the falconry school are also eager to offer up every bit of knowledge they have about the birds they care for.
When I got home from my trip to Ashford, everybody asked me if I got to visit other parts of Ireland while I was over there. They seemed surprised when I explained that I didn’t step foot in Dublin or even do a quick little detour over to Galway. There’s plenty more of Ireland for me to explore in future visits, but I do feel like my time at the castle was the perfect introduction to Irish hospitality. The Meet the Makers experience showed me how friendly and welcoming the locals can be. We watched a basket weaver work his magic while enjoying scones and tea prepared by his wife. The bartender at Paddy Coynes pub let me pour my own pint of Guinness while a father/son musical act entertained the rest of the patrons. It crossed my mind while writing this article to list off a bunch of the famous faces and historical figures who have stayed at Ashford…there’s actually a whole wall in one of the hallways showcasing their portraits…but the level of service and attention to detail that the staff provides makes every guest feel like a VIP. My first time in Ireland may have been brief and limited to one particular region, but the staff at Ashford really know how to roll out the welcome mat and leave quite an impression.
