San Miguel de Allende, Mexico
Your typical street in San Miguel
San Miguel de Allende is a place where you go to unwind and escape; where time slows and meandering is a must. Think rose and orange hued plaster buildings, cobblestone streets, courtyard restaurants with creative cocktails, and shops filled with silver, pottery and hand-crafted leather goods. You’ll thank me when you stroll into the Plaza de Jardin at night (just follow the mariachi music) and catch your first glimpse of the Parroquia, in all her gothic glory.
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel (the gorgeous cathedral on the main square)
In 2008, San Miguel received UNESCO world heritage site status. This means that the historic buildings will be maintained, money is poured into the community to keep its culture alive and well, and certain restrictions are placed on changing the infrastructure - which is a good thing because the colonial architecture and gorgeous tree-lined plazas are definitely gems worth preserving!
All in all, this is a great city to dip your toe into Mexico. You will see Americans everywhere. If this is a comforting thought, this is your spot. If hearing this makes you want to run in the other direction…head to Guanajuato (which is also amazing and much more authentic).
The street behind the Parroquia (and one of the most photographed streets in the city)
Location: Central Mexico. Almost 5 hours northwest of Mexico City and 1.5 hours east of the airport in Leon (BJX) where we flew in.
Best time to visit: We actually visited at the hottest time (April/May) because it worked with our schedule. Temps ranged from 80-90 during the day, with cooler evenings and mornings. Honestly I don’t think there’s a bad time to visit. Expect Easter week and Christmas to be busier. Temperatures year round hover between 73 and 88, on average. One local said that September - November are beautiful months to visit.
My son wanted to take our picture here (courtyard of the Rosewood Hotel)
Trip duration: We did seven days because my husband was working remotely and our boys did a week-long Spanish school program for half a day. If your time is fully yours, you could soak up most of what San Miguel has to offer in a 4-5 night trip, or even a long weekend.
Couples or Kids?: Well…if your kids are foodies and like to shop, bring them! Otherwise, this is a very popular spot for girlfriend trips or couples. The main draw is shopping, cocktails and amazing food. Our kids absolutely LOVED it, but they also like grilled octopus and boutique shopping.
Getting there:
AIRPORTS
Leon Airport (BJX) is a 1.5 hour drive from San Miguel (and close to Guanajuato). The airport is small, easy to navigate, and the city area isn’t too congested.
Queretaro (QRO) is a one hour and 20 minute drive to San Miguel. It connects to Chicago, Houston, and Dallas in the United States.
Mexico City (MEX) - if you find a killer flight deal, then I guess go ahead and fly into this bustling metropolis, otherwise I would avoid it. It’s almost a five hour trek via car (longer by bus) to San Miguel.
Private car - we took a private suburban from San Miguel straight to the airport in Leon to avoid any bus delays and multiple transfers. It was about $100 total for the one-way, 1.5 hr trip and totally worth the convenience. Plus, our vehicle could seat up to eight, so if you’re traveling as a group, the cost is quite cheap to split. You can book here.
Traditional Mexican pottery on sale in the market
Where to stay:
Airbnbs - the captivating thing about the homes in San Miguel is that the street could be bustling with foot traffic and taxis, but once you open one those big, wide wooden doors, you step into a tranquil oasis. Our Airbnb had the most serene, lush courtyard and upper terrace, and we had three bedrooms for the cost of one expensive hotel room.
The Rosewood Hotel - it’s pricey, but it also has a spa, the best rooftop dining of anywhere in the city, and a pool (which is actually rare in San Miguel).
***The above are the only two options I have personal knowledge of, but if you find another accommodation, just check the proximity to the historic center and only book places with stellar reviews.
Morning on the terrace of our Airbnb
Things to Know:
Safety - Yes, it’s safe! I walked the streets alone from the morning to the evening and didn’t have a worry. The town gets off to a slow start, so if you’re a runner, you’ll have the streets to yourself at 7 or 8 am (just know that it’s pretty much all uneven surfaces).
Water - No one drinks the tap water, including the Mexicans. Bottled water is abundant everywhere, and if they serve you water in a carafe in a restaurant, it’s filtered and you’ll be fine (and the ice cubes are fine, too).
Language barrier - there really isn’t one. 10% of the population is expat, so English is spoken everywhere, and if your menu is in Spanish, try flipping it over because it’s probably in English on the other side. It’s always respectful to learn some friendly greetings and helpful to know your food vocab, but when in doubt, the Google Translate app can help you navigate any situation.
***Savvy traveler tip: Download the Google Translate app ahead of your trip. You can type something in English and it will immediately give you the phrase in Spanish, and even speak it via audio. You can also use the camera feature to take a photo of a sign or menu and it will immediately translate it to English. It’s truly incredible!!!
A woman in the market taking the needles off a cactus leaf so that she can cook it and sell it for tacos. Look for “nopales”on the menu if you want to try it.
Exchanging money - you’ll want pesos and there are numerous ATM machines around town located in the entries to banks (that will have a better exchange rate than at the airport). Most establishments take the major credit cards, but if you’re paying a small amount (for a souvenir, cup of coffee, etc.) you will want to pay in pesos. ***Credit card companies charge a 4% fee, so cash is definitely appreciated by small business owners.
The plumbing - this might be the most unsettling fact about visiting Mexico: you can’t flush your toilet paper. ANY toilet paper. There are trash bins next to each toilet for you to deposit your used TP. Anything coming out of you is free to be flushed.
Bring flat shoes - this might be THE most important advice I can give you! Don’t waste luggage space on high-heeled shoes! The streets are all cobblestones, and I just felt sorry for any woman trying to navigate the uneven roads and sidewalks with anything but a wedge or a flat. You’ll see a lot of dresses with white sneakers and flat sandals (there is a Birkenstock store if you don’t heed my advice and need a replacement), and I actually wore my ugly tennis shoes (with orthotics) just because I’m extremely practical and wanted to put down some miles. And I wasn’t the only one, so… whatev.
The gray is the road (and this is a relatively ‘flat’ area) and the brown is the sidewalk. Bring flat shoes!
Now let’s get to the good stuff!!!
Restaurants:
Lunas Tapas Bar - this place is a must! This is the rooftop bar of the famed Rosewood Hotel and the view is the best in the city (and so is the food). I recommend the vegan carrot pizza drizzled with a balsamic reduction and the tuna tartar. And definitely try one of their mezcal cocktails! Make reservations 1-2 weeks in advance - especially for a sunset seating!
Lunas Tapas Bar has one of the best views in the city and the food is OUTSTANDING!
Inside Cafe - a hole-in-the-wall spot with terrace dining (keep walking up the stairs to the top), and THE most fresh, and creative food in the city. After 4 pm the menu changes to Asian (except on “Taco Tuesday”). We probably ate here five times during our week-long stay.
One of their mezcal cocktails. They have two outdoor dining patios (go to the top floor for the best view).
Beautifully prepared food at the Inside Cafe.
Tostevere - this was recommended to us by two different expats as their favorite restaurant in the city. I wish we had tried it sooner! Their Mexican fusion menu is as aesthetically beautiful as it is tasty. They don’t take reservations and only have a few tables, so if first you don’t succeed…try an off-hours dining time to snag a spot.
Sour - this new bar was on the corner of our Airbnb and the first place we dined in San Miguel. The owner is so friendly, speaks great English, and his bartender is a wizard with mezcal. Definitely go to their happy hour where you can grab cocktails for around $5 a piece. And if you’re missing American fare, their hamburger is the best I’ve had.
Tostevere - love the unique decor!
Fatima 7 - a little on the pricey side, but their rooftop deck is worth the extra pesos. This is a great place to mix up the menu and dig into some Mediterranean favorites.
Don Taco Tequila - 100% vegan. I highly recommend their lentil nachos! They have an assortment of about 7-10 different types of tacos, mostly made with some type of mushroom or tofu.
The Restaurant - adding this because it shows up on numerous blogs. The courtyard is beautiful and the service is outstanding. If you’re in San Miguel for a week, give it a try, but I’d go with the above restaurants first. You can find better food cheaper.
San Mezcal - we heard great things about their tastings, and we love mezcal, but we found out about this place late and didn’t have time to squeeze it in. Next visit!
Don Taco Tequila - another beautiful interior with amazing food!
COFFEE SHOPS & BAKERIES
Lavanda - this place has a cult following. It’s the only place where I’ve seen a line out the door (and we were there in the “slow season.”). I’m not a coffee drinker, but I asked a few what the buzz was about and they it seemed to boil down to the precision and care with which each cappuccino and latte was made. I can vouch for the deliciousness of their lavender cookies!
Jaques - this spot is north of the downtown area, and their upstairs courtyard is a tranquil escape from the nearby bustling mercado. Plus, the street it’s on is one of the most charming with ivy colored walls and vibrant bougainvilleas framing doorways. (It’s also the same street where our children took Spanish Language lessons).
La Colmena Panadería - 100 year old bakery with a beautiful selection. Grab a tray and some tongs and choose your carb load. When you’re finished, bring it up to the counter and they will bag it for you.
The beautiful street that you can find Jacques on
SHOPPING
Boutiques
Artree: an assortment of the beautiful items that San Miguel has to offer - from leather goods to pottery to clothing.
Moderna: a small, funky shop with unique clothing and a colorful collection of men’s shoes and women’s espadrillas.
Talula de Lune: Mexican-crafted soft leather hand bags and gorgeous leather boots and shoes in a variety of colors and styles. Pricey, but a perfect splurge for something that you can use for years.
***The “5th Avenue” of San Miguel shopping is on the Cuna de Allende. It’s not Tiffany’s, but it is the higher end home decor and clothing boutiques of the area. Route Google Maps to the restaurant Quince and start from there.
Cuna de Allende - high end shopping boutiques along here
Resale
Yellow Boutique - I was so delighted to find this place! Although, it’s no secret because the tiny little shop was bustling with expats when I visited. They sell designer handbags, clothing and jewelry. I even snagged a used Talula de Lune leather bag (see above)!
Souvenirs
Mercado Artesianas Lucas Balderas - this is a series of three market areas all along a narrow alleyway with wares ranging from pottery to silver to child-loving Mexican tchotchkes. It’s definitely worth a stroll and an hour of your time.
Art
Fabrica la Aurora - you’ll find art all across the city, but if you’re truly into art collecting then this a must-visit. It’s a large complex of art galleries north of the city center, and there are also a couple of cafes where you can take a load off mid-perusing. ***time is relative across cultures, so technically they open at 10 am, but to ensure that the most doors are open, head there around noon.
The Mercado Artesians consists of three connected shopping alleys.
Parks
There are numerous little town squares in the city center, and you should visit them all, but if you’re craving a longer stroll…head to the Parque Benito Juarez. There’s a small playground for kids, numerous paths to stroll through the shade, and some street vendors with unique selections of jewelry and art. If you’re there on a weekend, stroll the grounds around 5 or 6 pm and you’ll probably catch a wedding procession led by two large Mondingagas and accompanied by a mariachi band and the wedding guests.
We saw two different wedding parades while visiting the park on a Friday evening!
Outings/Activities
Name of church - AKA: The Sistine Chapel of Mexico I am hoping to catch this on our next visit because I’ve heard that it’s incredible! You can definitely grab a cab for this jaunt 20 minutes outside of the city.
San Miguel Walking Food Tour - I booked this through Tripadvisor and I was a little worried about the 12:30 pm departure on a 90 degree day, but most of the tour was split between 5 or 6 dining establishments where we sat in the shade while the guide educated us on the history of the indigenous food item we had on our plate. From tamales to mole we learned some fascinating annectodes, and on the walks between tastings, our guide filled us in on the historical significance of the city. I highly recommend doing this during the first couple days of your trip!
So, ready to pack?! Bring your flowy linen pants, colorful maxi dresses, shades and sun hats - or buy it all there! Your most difficult decision will be to return to the amazing restaurant you ate at yesterday, or to try someplace new. I’ll help you out: go with someplace new. You’re not going to run out of amazing options!
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