WO2011083243A1

WO2011083243A1 - Cosmetic treatment methods and kit

Info

Publication number: WO2011083243A1
Application number: PCT/FR2010/052783
Authority: WO
Inventors: Christian Blaise; Sandrine Chodorowski-Kimmes
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-01-05
Filing date: 2010-12-17
Publication date: 2011-07-14
Also published as: WO2011083243A9; FR2954909B1; FR2954909A1; FR2954908A1; FR2954908B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such that they are provided with interesting cosmetic properties, especially in a long-lasting and reversible manner. The invention also relates to a kit comprising said composition.

Description

Cosmetic treatment processes and kit

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, making it possible to provide them, in particular in a durable and reversible manner, with interesting cosmetic properties.

In the hair field, we always try to color or perming the hair, without degrading; it is also sought to improve the properties of keratin materials, in particular colored or permed hair, and to combat damage suffered, such as external aggression such as pollution and ultraviolet radiation, or chemical attacks such as those caused by oxidizing, reducing or alkaline treatments, coloring or permanent.

Among the damage to the hair, there may be mentioned the loss of gloss, the increase in hydrophilicity, the loss or detachment of part of the scales, difficulty disentangling.

To improve the properties of the hair, it is known to use compositions containing cosmetic active ingredients to provide said keratin materials with all the benefits associated with these cosmetic active ingredients. This is also transposable to other keratin materials such as nails, eyelashes and skin.

However, the persistence and effectiveness of these assets are currently not sufficient, because they can be easily removed with shampoo; Moreover, the associations between treatment care and coloring compositions are not always easy or infinitely variable.

We also try to color the hair stubbornly and reversibly.

In the field of skin, one always seeks to bring extreme resistance to makeup, or to certain active ingredients such as sunscreens. The deposit on the skin must be able to withstand external aggressions such as pollution, UV rays, or aggressions related to the use over a long period, such as heat, baths or perspiration. On the other hand, we also try to associate this long-lasting with easy makeup and controlled by the consumer. The object of the present invention is to provide a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, making it possible to provide, in a durable and preferably reversible manner, cosmetic properties, including color.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials comprising the application on said materials:

in a first step, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) and

in a second step, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetic active agent bearing at least one unit of formula (la):

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) and at least one cosmetic active agent. bearing at least one unit of formula (la).

The invention also relates to a kit comprising said composition.

Indeed, it has been found that products comprising entities capable of forming physical interactions with one another, in particular products comprising units of formula (Ia), can bring cosmetic qualities, including color, to keratin materials, persistent. These products are in particular characterized by the presence of at least one entity capable of giving 3, preferably 4, hydrogen bonds.

Without being bound by the present explanation, it may be thought that the ureidopyrimidone entities of formula (Ia) are capable of generating a crosslinked network, by physical associations between molecules / polymers. As the crosslinking is a physical reticulation, the persistence of the effect is possible while allowing the makeup removal products. The elimination of the deposit may consist in particular of a rinsing with a cleaning composition applied at room temperature or at a temperature above 25 ° C., or by the use of a make-up remover, a shampoo, or by using any known breaker hydrogen bonding.

Numerous compounds incorporating ureidopyrimidone (UPY) motifs have been described in the literature and studied for their self-assembly property by basic research laboratories.

In the cosmetic field, mention may be made of WO02098377 which generally describes compounds with UPY motifs for cosmetic applications on the skin and the hair. WO2003032929 describes the preparation of supramolecular polymers and their use in hair applications. Reference may also be made to WO2004016598, which describes the preparation of supramolecular polymers and their use in a variety of applications including cosmetic applications; or WO2005042641 which describes the preparation of supramolecular polymers, especially polyurethanes, and their use in various applications including cosmetic applications.

The present invention allows the reversible and durable deposition of a cosmetic active on the surface of the hair, eyelashes, nail or skin using a system. double action that can be called Base Coat - Supramolecular Top Coat.

This Supramolecular Base Coat - Top Coat system consists of:

first, forming a durable film on the surface of the hair or skin, said film bearing patterns capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to another identical or different pattern; preferably, this unit is the ureidopyrimidone unit;

in a second step, depositing on this film various cosmetic active compounds or compounds (dye, fatty chain, hydrophilic unit, silicone, UV filter for example) covalently bound to a unit capable of associating with at least 3 linkages; hydrogenated sounds with the patterns present on the film deposited in the previous step; preferably, this unit is the ureidopyrimidone unit.

These two actions can be performed simultaneously by applying a top-coat and base-coat mixture to the surface of the keratin materials; or sequentially.

The deposit obtained in the final on the keratin materials, following the execution of these two stages, will have the advantage of being resistant to aggression type shampoo, disentangling, pollution, baths (sea, pool) and to be dissociated under the action of a stimulus specific to the destruction of supramolecular interactions (heat, alcoholic solvent for example). After dissociation, the durable film is always present and a new cosmetic active can then be deposited without requiring the reapplication of the film.

Another advantage of the present invention lies in the possibility of associating different active agents / cosmetic compounds with each other, provided that they are functionalized by the ad hoc supramolecular pattern. The nature of the material thus formed on the surface of the skin or the hair can thus be diversified in order to adapt to the needs of the consumer.

Thanks to the present invention, it is possible in the hair field, to improve the properties of the hair, to fight against damage, to moisturize, to treat and strengthen or even repair keratin materials, and to provide them with softness, color and shine in a lasting way so that the effect remains perceptible after at least one shampoo. By reinforcement of the keratin materials, an improvement of the mechanical properties is particularly understood which can be translated by:

- an increase in their rigidity, which gives them more resistance and body; or

a decrease in their deformation, in particular in damp conditions, which makes it possible for the hair to easily regain its initial shape once dried and results in an improvement in the hair's dynamics; or

- better resistance to mechanical tensile forces applied to them, for example during combing, which can lead to the breaking of the seen;

a decrease in its porosity or its swelling in the water. Indeed, it is known that a hair degraded by oxidizing, reducing or alkaline treatments is more porous than a non-degraded hair, which results in a faster diffusion and more heartwater and has the effect of increased hair diameter in a humid environment (The Science of Hair Care, p.416, 2 ^nd edition, ed C. Bouillon, J Wilkinson, 2005).

Thanks to the present invention, it is also conceivable, in the field of makeup, to provide, for example, color in a durable and possibly reversible way. It is also conceivable for the consumer to consider combining different effects, color change for example, or to associate the color with another cosmetic care such as sun protection. The cosmetic treatment process according to the invention therefore consists in applying to keratin materials, for example on natural hair or treated with a cosmetic treatment:

at first, at least one polymer comprising at least two chemical units capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to another identical or different motif (base coat)

- In a second step, at least one cosmetic active, in particular capillary, covalently linked to a unit capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to the units present on the polymer deposited in the preceding step (topcoat) .

This second step can be repeated as many times as desired, the 'top-coats' can be moved and exchanged with 'top-coats' carrying other cosmetic active under the action of one or more stimuli apt to break the hydrogen bonds (thermal, action of a solvent for example).

In order to 'move' the cosmetic active and cancel its effect, a top coat without cosmetic active can be used. It will preferably consist of a non-cosmetic pattern covalently linked to at least one unit capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to the base coat pattern.

The chemical unit capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds, whether in the base coat and / or in the top coat, preferably comprises at least one unit of formula (Ia) (also called ureidopyrimidone).

The base coat preferably contains one or more, especially one to three, different polymers having at least two chemical units capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to another identical or different pattern. Even more preferably, the base coat contains 1 to 2 different polymers having at least two chemical units capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to another identical or different pattern. In a particular embodiment, the top coat preferably contains, in addition to the cosmetic active agent, at least one polymer comprising at least two chemical units capable of associating with at least 3 hydrogen bonds to another identical or different pattern.

The polymers bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention (base coat, or even top coat) are defined below. A / General structure of the polymers according to the invention

The polymer that can be used in the context of the present invention therefore comprises:

(a) a polymeric backbone -POL-,

(b) at least one linking group (of formula (I)) linked to said polymer backbone, bearing at least one unit (la).

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymeric backbone", also referred to as POL, is intended to mean a homopolymer or copolymer, hereinafter referred to as a polymer, comprising at least two identical or different repeating units, better still at least three repetition units. , covalently bonded. By "comprising at least two repeating units" is meant according to the present invention, a constituent unit of a homopolymer or copolymer resulting from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of at least two identical or different monomeric or oligomeric units. Said polymer may be linear, cyclic, branched, in particular star, dendrimer or grafted, or crosslinked; it can be a homopolymer or a copolymer that can be statistical, alternating, sequenced or otherwise.

Also preferably, the number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the polymers according to the invention is between 1,000 and 3,000,000, in particular 5,000 and 1,000,000, and preferably between 8,000 and 500,000.

I /

The polymers according to the invention may advantageously be in one of the following structures:

linear (co) polymer functionalized at α, ω with junction groups (I);

- (linear) linear polymer having more than two junction groups (I), located in the chain and / or at one or both ends and / or branches; and or

- (co) branched polymer with junction groups (I) in the chain and / or branching and / or at one or both ends.

It is clear that the polymers according to the invention can have only one of these structures, or a mixture of these structures, in all proportions. Preferred polymers according to the invention are polymers having 2 or more joining groups, preferably having 4 or at least 4 groups and better still 6 or minus 6 splice groups.

The polymeric backbone may be prepared by radical, anionic or cationic, polyaddition, polycondensation, ring opening, or any other (co) polymerization mechanism.

Among the (co) polymerizable radical, anionic or cationic functions, mention may be made of ethylenic double bonds, whether or not activated, such as olefinic functions, vinyl, allylic, (meth) acrylic, (meth) acrylamide functional groups and their functional groups. combinations.

Among the polymerizable functions by polyaddition or by polycondensation, mention may be made of hydroxyl functional groups, primary and secondary amines, esters, carboxylic acids and isocyanates, whether activated or not.

Among the functions which can be polymerized by anionic or cationic ring opening, mention may be made of cyclic esters, cyclic amides, cyclic carbonates and cyclic ethers.

We can also mention the reactions between the halides and the tertiary amines.

Among the ethylenically unsaturated monomers that can be used to form the polymeric backbone, mention may be made of:

a) (meth) acrylates of formula CH ₂ = CHCOOR ⁴ or CH ₂ = C (CH ₃ ) COOR ⁴ in which R ⁴ represents:

a hydrogen,

a linear, cyclic or branched (in particular cycloalkyl or alkyl-cycloalkyl) alkyl group, in C1-C30, in which is (are) optionally intercalated one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P; said alkyl group may further be optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from OH, halogens (Cl, Br, I and F) and Si (R ₇ ) (Rs) groups, where R ₇ and R ₈ , identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a phenyl group.

a C 3 to C 20 aryl group such as the phenyl group;

a C ₄ -C 30 aralkyl or alkylaryl group (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group) such as 2-phenylethyl or benzyl;

- a C4-C12 heterocycloalkyl group containing one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, P and S, the ring being aromatic or not; such as imidazole;

a C4-C30 alkyl heterocycloalkyl group, (C8 alkyl), such as furfurylmethyl or tetrahydrofurfurylmethyl,

said aryl and aralkyl groups may optionally comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, and / or may be substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms and groups; alkyl Ci-C _4, linear or branched, which themselves may comprise intercalated one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P and / or which may be substituted by one or more substituted selected from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I and F), and Si (R ₇ ) (R 8) groups, wherein R ₇ and R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group Ci to Cs, or a phenyl group.

Mention may especially be made of methyl and ethyl (meth) acrylates. b) (meth) acrylamides of formula CH ₂ = CHCONR ⁶ R ⁵ or CH ₂ = C (CH ₃ ) CONR ⁶ R ⁵ in which R ⁵ and R ⁶ , which are identical or different, have the same meanings as for the R groups ⁴ above.

Examples of (meth) acrylamide monomers are (meth) acrylamide, N-ethyl (meth) acrylamide, N-butylacrylamide, Nt-butylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N, N-dimethyl (meth) acrylamide, N, N-dibutylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide, undecylacrylamide, and N (2-hydroxypropylmethacrylamide). c) the vinyl monomers of formulas: CH 2 = CH-R ⁹ , CH 2 = CH-CH 2 -R ⁹ or CH 2 = C (CH 3) -CH 2 -R ⁹

wherein R ⁹ is hydroxyl, halogen (Cl or F), NH ₂ , acetamide (-NHCOCH 3), -OR ₁ O wherein R ¹⁰ is phenyl or C 1 -C 12 alkyl (vinyl ether); -OCORn (vinyl ester) where R represents:

(i) an alkyl group of C ₂ to Ci ₂ linear or branched,

(ii) cycloalkyl C3-Ci ₂ such as isobornyl or cyclohexyl,

(iii) aryl C 3 -C ₂ o such as phenyl,

(iv) a C ₄ -C 30 aralkyl group (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group) such as 2-phenylethyl and benzyl,

(v) a saturated or unsaturated aromatic or non-aromatic 4- to 12-membered heterocycloalkyl group containing one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, and S, such as furfuryl or tetrahydrofurfuryl,

(vi) a alkylheterocycloalkyl group of Ci to C ₄ such as methyl furfuryl or tetra hydrofurfurylméthyle,

said alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, aralkyl, heterocycloalkyl or alkylheterocycloalkyl groups being optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms, and linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups in which are optionally intercalated one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, said alkyl groups may further be optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms (Cl, Br , I and F) and Si (R ₇ ) (Rs) groups wherein R ₇ and R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 3 alkyl group, or a phenyl group.

Examples of vinyl monomers are vinylcyclohexane, styrene, N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylcaprolactam.

Examples of vinyl esters are vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl butyrate, vinyl ethylhexanoate, vinyl neononanoate, and vinyl neododecanoate. Examples of vinyl ethers are vinyl methyl ether, vinyl ethyl ether and vinyl isobutyl ether. d) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one carboxylic acid (COOH), phosphonic acid (PO 3 H 2) or sulphonic acid (SO 3 H) function, such as those of formula: CH ₂ = C (R ₉ ) - ( _{Z 1} ) _z i - ( _{Z 2} ) _Z 2 -Y

in which

R19 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

- Z1 is a divalent group selected from -COO-, -CONH-, -CONCH3-, -OCO- and -O-, preferably Z1 is selected from -COO- and -CONH-;

-Σi is 0 or 1, preferably 1;

- Z2 is a divalent carbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 30 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, and P;

z ₂ is 0 or 1, preferably 1; and

Y is a group chosen from -COOH, -SO ₃ H, -OSO ₃ H, -PO (OH) ₂ and -OPO (OH) ₂ .

In particular Z2 can be:

a C1-C30 alkylene radical such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, isobutylene, tert-butylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n-dodecylene, n-octadecylene, n-tetradecylene, n-docosanylene;

a phenylene radical -C6H- (ortho, meta or para) optionally substituted with a C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, and P; or a benzylene radical -CeH -CH ₂ - optionally substituted by a C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, and P;

a radical of formula -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (NH ₂ ) -, - CH ₂ -CH (NH ₂ ) -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (NHR, -CH ₂ -CH (NHR, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (NR'R ") -, -CH ₂ -CH (NR'R") - , -CH ₂ -CH = CH- with R 'and R "representing a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl.

There may be mentioned in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, diacrylic acid, dimethylfumaric acid and citraconic acid. , acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, styrene sulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, vinyisulphonic acid, vinylbenzene sulfonic acid, acrylamidoglycolic acid, formula CH2 = CH-CONHCH (OH) COOH, vinylphosphonic acid; 2-carboxyethyl (meth) acrylate, sulfopropyl methacrylate or acrylate (CH ₂ = C (CH ₃ ) CO ₂ (CH ₂ ) ₃ SO ₃ H), sulfoethyl methacrylate or acrylate and vinyl methyl sulfone 2- (methacryloyloxy) ethylphosphate of formula CH ₂ = C (CH ₃ ) COOC ₂ H ₄ OP (O) (OH) ₂ ; diallyl maleate of formula C ₃ H ₅ -CO ₂ - CH = CH-CO ₂ -C ₂ H ₅ ; and their mixtures. e) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, in particular those of formula:

CH ₂ = C (R ₉ ) - ( _{Z 1} ) _{z 1} - (Z 2) _{z 2} -X

in which

- Rig, Z1, Z2, Σi and z ₂ have the same meanings as in the previous formula; and

- X is either a group of formula -N-R17R18 with R17 and R ₈ representing, independently of one another,

(i) a hydrogen atom;

(ii) a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C1-C30 alkyl group, which can comprise 1 -10 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, and P; in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, lauryl or stearyl group;

(iii) an alkylene oxide group of formula - (R ₂ oO) _y R ₂ i with R ₂ o representing a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ alkyl, R ₂ i is hydrogen or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in C ₂ -C 30 and y is between 1 and 250 inclusive;

(iv) R17 and Ris may form with the nitrogen atom a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic ring, comprising in total 5 to 8 atoms, and in particular 4 to

6 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms selected from O, S and N; said cycle being furthermore capable of being fused with one or more other saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic rings, each comprising 5 to 7 atoms, and in particular 4 to 7 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N; ;

X represents a group -R'i ₅ -N-R'i ₆ - in which R'15 and R'i ₆ form with the nitrogen atom a ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, comprising in total 5 , 6, 7 or 8 atoms, and especially 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms selected from O, S and N; said cycle being fusible with one or more other rings, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, each comprising 5, 6 or 7 atoms, and especially 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms selected from O, S and N.

Mention may be made in particular of the following monomers: 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, aHylamine and aHylpyridine; aminoalkyl (meth) acrylates, such as [N, N-di (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylamino] (C 1 -C 6) alkyl (meth) acrylates or [N- (C 1 -C)) alkyl (meth) acrylates; C ₄ ) alkylamino] (C ₁ -C 6) alkyl and in particular Ν, Ν-dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, N, N-diethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, 2-aminoethyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate, ) 2- (N-tertbutylamino) ethyl acrylate; aminoalkyl (meth) acrylamides, such as [N, N-di (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylamino] (C 1 -C 6) alkyl (meth) acrylamides or [N- (dC ₄ ) (meth) acrylamides; amino)] (C 1 -C 6) alkyl, and especially Ν, Ν-dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide, N, N (meth) acrylamide, dimethylaminoethyl; 3-aminopropyl (meth) acrylamide; vinylamine, vinylimidazole, 2- (diethylamino) ethylstyrene; N-vinylimidazole, N-vinyl-2-methylinnidazole, N-vinylcarbazole; as well as their salts and / or their quaternized forms.

Polymeric backbones that may also be mentioned include polydienes, polyesters, polycarbonates, polyacetals, polyoxyalkylenes, polythioethers, perfluoropolyethers, polyolefins, polyorganosiloxanes, vinyl polymers, poly (meth) acrylics, derivatives thereof. cellulosic, polysaccharide derivatives, especially ethers and esters.

1 / polydienes, preferably hydrogenated, with hydroxyl ends and polyolefins with hydroxyl ends, especially chosen from homo and copolymers of polybutadiene, polyisoprene and poly (1,3-pentadiene). They preferably have a number average molecular weight of less than 7000, preferably from 1000 to 5000, and have a hydroxyl end functionality of 1.8 to 3 and preferably close to 2. These polydienes are preferably used. , hydrogenated. In particular, mention may be made of the hydroxylated polybutadienes marketed by ELF ATOCHEM under the trade marks POLY BD R-45HT and POLY BD R-20 LM, which will preferably be used for hydrogenation. It is also possible to use polyolefins, homopolymers or copolymers with α, ω hydroxyl ends, such as the α, ω hydroxyl endblocked polyisobutylene oligomers and the copolymers sold by Mitsubishi under the trademark corresponding to the formula:

Polyesters initially with α, ω -OH ends, also known as polyesterspolyols, especially those obtained by reaction between:

at least one polyhydric alcohol such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, furan dimethanol, cyclohexane dimethanol, glycerol, trimethylpropane, pentaerythritol and their mixtures, and

at least one carboxylic acid, preferably a dicarboxylic acid, or a derivative, especially an ester, such as succinic, glutamic, adipic acids and their dimethyl esters; and phthalic anhydride.

They can also be obtained by polymerization of a lactone, for example caprolactone and a polyol.

Polyester polyols obtained by condensation with a dimer and / or dimer-diol fatty acid may be mentioned. Dimer fatty acids can be of formula:

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) ₈ CH (CH ₂ ) ₇ C (O) OH

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = C (CH ₂ ) ₇ C (O) OH

The dimers-diols are preferably those defined in the article by R. HÔFER, European Coating Journal, March 2000, pages 26-37. They have the same chemical structures as the corresponding dimeric fatty acids, only the functionalities change. As indicated in the article by R. HÔFER, European Coating Journal, March 2000, pages 26-37, the conversion of dimeric fatty acids to diol dimers can be made either by hydrogenation of dimeric fatty acid methyl esters or by dimerization direct oleic alcohol.

Polyester polyols obtained by reaction with natural or synthetic hydrocarbon oils bearing two to three hydroxyl groups (or epoxides) can also be mentioned. Preferred oils may carry two hydroxyl groups per chain such as monoglycerides of structure:

CH ^ O CH ₂ OH

CHOH or CH O- C R '

CH ₂ OH CH ₂ OH O

where R 'is a linear or branched alkyl chain, for example glycerol monostearate.

3 / the polycarbonates initially at ends a, co-OH, which can be obtained by the reaction between a diol which may be chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, diethylene glycol, and tetraethylene glycol, and a diaryl carbonate, for example a diphenylcarbonate, or phosgene . 4 / the polyalkylene oxides initially at ends a, co-OH which can be obtained by polymerization of cyclic oxides, especially chosen from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and tetrahydrofuran, or by addition of one or several cyclic oxides with polyfunctional initiators, especially chosen from water, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, cyclohexane diethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, and disphenol A. Polyoxypropylene diols and triols, poly (oxyethylene-oxopropylene) diols and triols, obtained by simultaneous or sequential addition of ethylene oxide or propylene glycol to appropriate initiators, are preferred polyalkylene oxides. Similarly, polytetramethylene glycols obtained by polymerization of tetrahydrofuran; and the oligomeric polyalkylene oxides bearing at least two amino groups at the POE chain ends are preferred polyalkylene oxides.

Polyethioethers initially with α, ω -OH ends, which can be obtained by condensation of thiodiglycol alone or with other glycols, or dicarboxylic acids, formaldehyde, amino alcohols or aminocarboxylic acids.

6 / polyacetals initially with α, ω -OH ends which can be obtained by reaction between a glycol, in particular diethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol and hexanediol, and formaldehyde. Mention may also be made of polyacetals obtained by polymerization of cyclic acetals.

Polyorganosiloxanes initially carrying at least two reactive groups such as -OH, -NH ₂ , -NHR, -SH and SiH, among which mention may be made of α, ω-telechelic polyorganosiloxanes with OH, NH ₂ ends; and / or NHR, of structure:

With:

x denotes an integer from 0 to 100,

Z represents -O-, or -NH-, or -NR-,

R is as defined previously,

Rs is a group selected from alkyl or C1 -C40 linear or branched (preferably -CH _3, -C2H _5, n-CsH ₇ and iso-C3H ₇₎ phenyl, optionally substituted by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains, linear or branched C1-C12 fluoroalkyl groups, and C1-C12 fluoroalkoxyethylene, linear or branched,

R ⁴ is selected from C1-C-60 divalent alkyl groups, C1-C60 oxyalkylene groups and containing from 0 to 3 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, and wherein each atom directly connected to a hydroxyl group is a carbon atom.

Preferably, R ₄ is a divalent C1-C10 alkylene radical where x is an integer such that the number average molecular weight of the polysiloxane ranges from 300 to 10,000.

Very preferably, the polydimethylsiloxanes are of structure:

where a denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 10, and Z is as defined above.

Mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes for which R ₄ is an oxyalkylene group comprising butylene oxide units, or propylene oxide units, or from 0 to 3 ethylene oxide units, in particular those of structure:

where n varies from 2 to 6 independently, and x is an integer from 2 to 100.

Mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes with polyalkylene oxide grafts terminated by -OH groups (POE grafts or POE-PPO grafts), in particular of structure:

wherein R ₅ is a monovalent polyalkylene oxide group with an -OH terminated and R6 being identical to R 3 or R _5.

Mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes with lateral and / or terminal amine groups, in particular of structure: R ₈ R-10 R8

or :

the groups R ₇ and R ₉ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from C 1 -C 22 alkyl, phenyl, naphthyl or polyoxyalkylene groups,

at least one of the groups represented by the symbols Rio and Ri ₂ is a group of structure H ₂ N - (-RR ₃ -NH-) _s -Ri ₄ , where R12 and R _M each represent an alkylene group containing 1 at 6 carbon atoms and s is 0 or 1,

the other groups may be the same or different, and are C1-C22 alkyl groups, or phenyl, naphthyl or polyoxyalkylene groups, and m and n each represent a number at least 1.

Polyorganosiloxanes with lateral and / or terminal thiol groups SH may also be mentioned.

Mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes with side groups and / or hydrogenosilane endpoints of structure:

wherein R 13 is either R ₃ or H.

Such polyorganosiloxanes can be used only for the attachment of linking groups (A) carrying a (meth) allyl double bond.

8 / the perfluoropolyethers initially with ends and / or hydroxyl side groups, preferably perfluoro polyether diols of formula:

HO- -Rf -Q- O (FJC _2i O) j (C _y F _2y O) _k (C _z F _2z O) _p - R f Q 'OH

in which :

the groups oxyperfluoroalkylene - (CiF ₂ iO) -, (C _y F _2y O) - and - (C _z F _2z O) - are randomly distributed, or are grouped together in a chain,

i, y and z are integers from 1 to 10, j and p are integers from 0 to 100, and k is a integer from 1 to 100,

each Rf group is independently selected from perfluoroalkyl divalent radicals having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms,

each Q is independently selected from -CeH ₄ , -C ₆ H ₃ Cl-, C ₂ H ₄ OCH ₂ - and CbH b,

each Q 'group is independently selected from -CeH ₄ , -C ₆ H ₃ Cl-, C ₂ H ₄ OCH ₂ - and C _b H _2b , and

b is an integer of 1 to 20.

9 / vinyl or (meth) acrylic oligomers or polymers initially with -OH, -NH ₂ , -NHR, -SH reactive groups.

These are preferably oligomers with a number average molecular weight of less than 10,000, obtained by copolymerization of one or more vinyl monomers, allyl, olefins, vinyl ethers, acids or esters or (meth) acrylic amides, with at least one co-monomer. reagent carrying at least one group selected from -OH, -NH ₂ and -NHR. Mention may be made of homo and copolymers obtained by polymerization of hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or vinyl alcohol (obtained by hydrolysis of the vinyl acetate units of the polymer), or the allyl alcohol, vinylamine, or allyl amine. It is also possible to use the oligomers (homo and co) bearing reactive ends α, ω -ΟΗ. The polymerization of methacrylic monomers (acid, esters or amides) in the presence of 2-mercaptoethanol transfer agent (HS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -OH) results in oligomers functionalized at each end α, ω by a hydroxyethylsulphide group:

HO CH ₂ - CH ₂ S POL S CH ₂ CH ₂ OH

And R "is a group selected from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkenyl, alkoxy, alkoxyalkyl, alkoxyaryl or phenyl.

10 / cellulose derivatives (or polysaccharides), such as ethers hydroxyalkyl ethers and alkyl ethers cellulose (or guar), cellulose esters (such as acetates, propionates, butyrates and mixed esters), and nitrocellulose.

1 1 / di, tri, tetra and more generally polysaccharides or their derivatives, especially ethers and esters.

12 / hyperbranched or dendrimers, initially reactive ends of the type -OH, -NH ₂ , -NHR and -SH. These are molecular structures built around a generally versatile central pattern. Around this central motif are chained, in concentric layers and in a perfectly determined structure, branched chain extension units thus giving rise to symmetrical, monodisperse macromolecules having a well defined chemical and stereochemical structure. Dendrimers of the polyaminoamine type are marketed for example under the name STARBUST® by the company DENDRITECH. The hyperbranched polymers are polycondensates, generally of polyester, polyamide or polyethyleneamine type, obtained from multifunctional monomers, which have a tree structure similar to that of dendrimers but much less regular than this one.

Fixing the joining groups on the polymeric backbone

The chemical fixing reactions mentioned here are not limiting but only given by way of illustration.

According to a first embodiment, the linking groups are attached to polymeric backbones comprising groups with labile hydrogen such as -OH, -NH ₂ , -NHR or -SH, via the functionalization of the linking group by an isocyanate. . This reaction comprises the following steps:

functionalization of the group A by an isocyanate according to the reaction scheme:

A NH ₂ + OCN R NCO ^^^^ A NH CR NCO

in excess

O

and then reaction with the polymer backbone comprising at least two labile hydrogen groups such as -OH, -NH ₂ , or -SH.

By way of example, mention may be made of the ureidopyrimido group-fixing reaction, for example 6-methylisocytosine, on a POL polymer backbone of structure HO-POL-OH or H ₂ N-POL-NH ₂ :

OH POL OH or H ₂ N POL NH ₂

It is also possible to make the reverse reaction by prefunctionalizing the labile hydrogen-containing polymer backbone such as -OH, NH ₂ , -NHR or -SH with a diisocyanate. By way of example, mention may be made of the reaction of a polymeric backbone POL with a diisocyanate according to:

These two reactions are described in the publication FOLMER et al., Adv. Mater, 2, 874-878 (2000). This publication also gives the conditions for attachment of the ureidopyrimidone groups, for one or the other of the two routes described above, to POL polymer backbones of a polyoxyalkylene nature (for example: HO-POE / PPO-OH), polyester (eg, butyl polyadipate with -OH end), polycarbonate (for example copoly (ethylene / butylene) at the end a, co-OH). These two ureidopyrimidone uptake pathways can be transposed to all -POL- polymeric backbones having two or more -OH, -NH, -NHR, and -SH groups.

The conditions for attachment of the 6-methylisocytosine groups via isophorone diisocyanate to POE / PPO block copolymers with OH ends are detailed in the publication of LANGE, J. Polymer Sci. Part A, Polym. Chem., 3657-70 (1999) and in WO98 / 14504.

Alternatively, the linking groups can be attached to the polyorganosiloxanes by hydrolysis. This reaction comprises the following steps: functionalization of the linking group (A) with an allylic group -CH ₂ -CH = CH ₂ by direct synthesis, which leads to CH ₂ = CH-CH ₂ - (A); and then reaction with an organosiloxane carrying at least two hydrogenosilane groups -S, H:

By way of example, mention may be made of the hydrosilylation reaction described in the publication of SIVBESMA, Science, 278, 1601-04 (1997).

These protective reactions, hydrosilylation then deprotection are detailed in the article by HIRSCHBERG, Macromolecules, 32, 2696-2705 (1999) and in the application WO98 / 14504.

He/

Among the polymers obtained by condensation which may be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of the polymers resulting from the reaction of: at least one monomer (a) which comprises at least two polymerizable groups, identical or different, chosen from -N = C = O and -N = C = S, or their activated or blocked form;

at least one monomer (b) comprising at least two polymerizable groups with labile hydrogen, identical or different, chosen from -OH, -SH, -NH ₂ and -NHR, with R representing a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group;

at least one of the monomers (a) and / or (b) comprising at least one linking group, capable of forming at least 3 H bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds and more preferably 4 H bonds. The monomer (a) can therefore be of formula Y = C = NR ^a -N = C = Y 'with Y, Y', identical or different, representing O or S; preferably Y = Y 'and even better Y = Y' = O.

When in activated or blocked form, the monomer (a) may also be of the formula BC (O) -NH-R ^a -NH-C (O) -B 'as described in "Comprehensive Polymer Science, vol 5: step polymerization p421, Pergamon Press (1989). Thus, B and B 'may be, independently of one another, selected from:

A first family (a1) of preferred monomers (a) is that in which R ^a is a divalent radical, aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic or otherwise, aromatic or otherwise, and which comprises 1 to 40 carbon atoms , optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S and / or N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and / or hydroxyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R ^may in particular be a linear alkyl or branched C1-C30 or a cycloalkyl group having ₄ or -Ci2 aryl C ₄ -Ci2; optionally substituted with an ester and / or amide function.

It can for example be of structure:

- (CH ₂ ) _C -, - (CRH) c and - (CRR ') c in which R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl group and c is an integer of 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 12,

or of structure:

wherein b is an integer from 0 to 3;

as well as all combinations of these structures.

Among the divalent R ^radicals are particularly preferred, there may be mentioned the following radicals: 1, 2-ethylene, 1, 6-hexylene, 1, 4-butylene, 1, 6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1, 4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7- -diméthyloctylène); 4,4'-methylenebis (cyclohexyl 1,4-cyclohexylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene, 1,5-naphthylene, 4,4'-methylenebis (phenyl), tetramethyl xylylene, the divalent radical derived from isophorone The monomers (a) which are particularly preferred can be chosen from the following compounds:

1,4-diisocyanatobutane;

1,6-hexamethylenediisocyanate or 1,6-diisocyanatohexane

1 .5-diisocyanato-2-methylpentane

1,4-diisocyanato-4-methylpentane,

1,6-diisocyanato-2,2,4-trimethylhexane,

1,6-diisocyanato-2,4,4-trimethylhexane,

1,5-diisocyanato-5-methylhexane, 3 (4) -isocyanatomethyl-1-methylcyclohexylisocyanate

1-6-diisocyanato-6-methyl-heptane,

1,5-diisocyanato-2,2,5-trinethylhexane,

1,7-diisocyanato-3,7-dimethyloctane,

1-isocyanato-1,2,2-triinethyl-3- (2-isocyanato-ethyl) -cyclopentane,

1-isocyanato-n-butyl-3- (4-isocyanatobut-1-yl) -cyclopentane;

1-isocyanato-1,2-dimethyl-3-ethyl-3-isocyanatonnethylcyclopentane;

1-isocyanato-1-methyl-4- (4-isocyanatobut-2-yl) -cyclohexane,

1-isocyanato-1,4-dimethyl-4-isocyanatonnethylcyclohexane,

1-isocyanato-1,3-dimethyl-3-isocyanatonnethylcyclohexane,

1 .3-bis (isocyanatomethyl) cyclohexane

isophorone;

4,4'-methylenebis (cyclohexyl isocyanate)

1,4-diphenylene diisocyanate; tolylene 2,4-diisocyanate; tolylene 2,6-diisocyanate;

1,3-bis (isocyanatomethyl) benzene

4,4'-nnethylenebis (phenyl isocyanate)

naphthalene diisocyanate;

tetramethyl-1,3-xylylenediisocyanate.

These diisocyanates can of course be used alone or as a mixture of two or more diisocyanates.

A second preferred family (a2) of monomers (a) is that in which the divalent radical R ^a is a polymeric radical, in particular of the homopolymer or copolymer type, for example chosen from:

ethylenic copolymers such as polyolefins having units selected from 1, 2-butadiene; 1,4-butadiene; isoprene; ethylene; propylene; 1, 2-butylene, 1,4-butylene; isobutylene; (meth) acrylic copolymers, (meth) acrylamide copolymers, vinyl copolymers, allyl copolymers and mixtures thereof.

Thus, vinyl / (meth) acrylate, vinyl / (meth) acrylamide, vinyl / (meth) acrylate / methacrylamide, olefinic / vinyl and (meth) acrylate / (meth) acrylamide copolymers are suitable for the invention;

polyethers, perfluorinated or otherwise, of the polyethylene oxide type, polypropylene oxide, and their polyethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymers, tetramethylene polyoxides and perfluoropolyethers; polythioethers;

polyesters and especially polyesters based on adipic acid or terephthalic acid; polycaprolactone; poly (2-methyl-1,3-propylene adipate), poly- (2-methyl-1,3-propylene) glutarate; sulphonic polyesters;

polylactides;

polyamides;

polyoxazolines such as poly (2-methyloxazoline) or poly (2- ethyloxazoline);

siloxane copolymers, such as, for example, polysiloxanes consisting of -Si (R ⁴ ) (R ⁵ ) O- units where (R ⁴ ) and (R ⁵ ), which may be identical or different, represent H or a linear carbon radical; or branched, cyclic or otherwise, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, preferably a C 1 -C 12 alkyl which may optionally comprise one or more, preferably 1 to 5, heteroatoms, which may be identical or different, chosen from: O, N, S , P, F and Si, preferably O, N and S, and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and poly (methylphenylsiloxanes);

copolymers of these different types of polymers, for example polysiloxane / polyethylene oxide copolymers,

polyacetals;

perfluorinated polycarbonates or not;

- and their mixtures. When R ^a is a polymeric radical, it preferably has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 500 and 30,000, more particularly between 700 and 25,000 and better still between 800 and 15,000.

Preferably, R ^a may be chosen from functional polymers of:

polyesters, more particularly based on adipic acid and / or terephthalic acid; poly (2-methyl-1,3-propylene adipate) and poly- (2-methyl-1,3-propylene) glutarate;

polyethers and in particular tetramethylene polyoxides,

siloxane copolymers; and

poly (ethylene-butylene) and polybutadienes.

When R ^a corresponds to a mixture of different polymers, the percentage of said different polymers may be chosen by those skilled in the art as a function of the desired properties.

Preferably, the monomers (a) are of type (a1), alone or mixed with each other. However, it is also possible to have a mixture of monomers (a1), alone or as a mixture, and of monomers (a2) alone or as a mixture.

When the monomer (a) comprises at least one joining group, it may be of formula:

wherein Rxi, RX2, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon-based radical chosen from a linear or branched alkyl C1-C30 or cycloalkyl or C ₄ -Ci2 aryl C ₄ -Ci2; possibly including 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R2 being as previously defined for the joining group (A).

Preferably, the monomer (a) can be of formula:

wherein Rxi, RX2, RX3 are identical or different, represent a divalent carbon-based radical chosen from a linear or branched alkyl C1-C30 or cycloalkyl or C ₄ -Ci2 aryl C ₄ -Ci2; or their mixtures.

The radicals Rx1, Rx2 and Rx3, independently of one another, may be preferably selected from the following groups: methylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6 (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene); 1, 6- (6-methylheptylene); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-Biphenylenemethylene, 1,2-tolylene, 1,4-tolylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene; 1,5-naphthylene; 4,4'-methylenebis (phenyl); tetramethyl xylylene; the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

Particularly preferably, Rxi, Rx and RX2 ₃ represent, independently of one another, - (CH ₂₎ ₂ -, - (CH ₂₎ ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH3) CH2C (CH3) ( CH 3) CH ₂ CH _{2 -} , or an isophorone radical;

and more preferably R 1 and R ₃ represent an isophorone radical and R ₂ represents - (CH ₂ ) 2 -, which leads to the following monomer (a):

The polymer according to the invention further comprises at least one monomer (b) chosen from the monomers (b1) and (b2) defined below; it can obviously include a mixture of monomers (b1) and (b2); monomers which both comprise at least two polymerizable groups, identical or different, selected from OH, SH, NH ₂ and NHR with R = C 1 -C 6 alkyl. The monomer (b1) may be of formula HX-R-X'H, with X and X ', which may be identical or different, chosen from O, S, NH or NR, R representing a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Preferably, in (b1), X and / or X '= O and preferentially X = X' = O.

The divalent radical R ^b1 preferably represents a divalent polymeric radical, in particular of the homopolymer or copolymer type, for example chosen from the functional copolymers dithiol, diamines, diols, aminoalcohol, the functions alcohol, amine and / or thiol being borne at the ends of the chain or along the skeleton; in particular, radicals of the following type may be mentioned as polymeric radicals:

polyethers, perfluorinated or otherwise, of the polyethylene oxide type, polypropylene oxide, and their polyethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymers, tetramethylene polyoxides; perfluoropolyethers and polythioethers;

polylactides;

polyesters, especially based on adipic acid or terephthalic acid; in particular polycaprolactone; poly (2-methyl-1,3-propylene adipate), poly (2-methyl-1,3-propylene) glutarate; sulphonic polyesters;

- polyamides;

polyoxazolines such as poly (2-methyloxazoline), poly (2-ethyloxazoline); siloxane copolymers, such as, for example, polysiloxanes consisting of - Si (R ⁴ ) (R ⁵ ) O - units where (R ⁴ ) and (R ⁵ ), which may be identical or different, represent H or a linear carbon radical; or branched, cyclic or otherwise, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, preferably a C 1 -C 12 alkyl which may optionally comprise one or more, preferably 1 to 5, heteroatoms, which may be identical or different, chosen from: O, N, S , P, F and Si, preferably O, N and S, and especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and poly (methylphenylsiloxanes);

polyacetals;

ethylenic copolymers and especially (meth) acrylic copolymers, (meth) acrylamide copolymers, vinyl copolymers, allyl copolymers; thus suitable for the invention are vinyl / (meth) acrylate, vinyl / (meth) acrylamide, vinyl / (meth) acrylate / methacrylamide, olefinic / vinyl copolymers and (meth) acrylates / (meth) acrylamides;

polyolefins comprising units selected from 1, 2-butadiene; 1,4-butadiene; isoprene; ethylene; propylene; 1, 2-butylene, 1,4-butylene; isobutylene; perfluorinated polycarbonates or not;

- and their mixtures.

The monomer (b1) preferably has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 500 and 30,000, more preferably between 700 and 25,000 and more preferably between 800 and 15,000.

When R ^b1 corresponds to a mixture of different polymers, the percentage of said different polymers can be chosen by those skilled in the art as a function of properties sought.

Preferably, R ^b1 may be chosen from functional polymers of:

polyesters, more particularly based on adipic acid and / or terephthalic acid; and especially poly (2-methyl-1,3-propylene adipate) and poly- (2-methyl-1,3-propylene) glutarate;

polyethers and in particular tetramethylene polyoxides,

siloxane copolymers; and

poly (ethylene-butylene) and polybutadienes. The monomer (b2) can therefore be of formula HX-R ^b2 -X'H, with X and X ', which are identical or different, chosen from O, S, NH or NR, R representing a C1-C6 alkyl group. Preferably, in (b2), X and / or X '= O and preferably X = X' = O. The divalent radical R ^b2 preferably represents a divalent carbon radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, cyclic or otherwise, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or otherwise, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, P and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine and / or silicon atoms.

The heteroatom (s), when present, may be inserted in the chain of said radical, or said radical may be substituted by one or more groups including them such as hydroxyl or amino groups (NH ₂ , NHR 'or NR'R with R 'and R "which are identical or different and represent a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl, optionally comprising 1 to 12 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P, in particular methyl or ethyl).

Thus, R ^b2 can include:

an alkylene radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms or cycloalkylene having 3 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, with a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and Such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, isobutylene, tert-butylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n-dodecylene, n-octadecylene, n-tetradecylene, n-docosanylene; 2-ethylhexylene, cyclohexylene, cyclohexylemethylene, isophorone;

- a radical -C 30 arylene such as phenylene -C6H ₄ - (ortho, meta or para) optionally substituted with a C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 25 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F , Si and P;

a benzylene radical -C 6 H -CH ₂ - optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and P;

a C1 to C30 alkylarylene or arylalkylene radical, preferably a C2 to C12 radical,

a radical of formula: -O-CO-O-, -CO-O-, -OCO-, -O-CO-NH-, anhydride, -NH-CO-NH-, NHCO;

a radical Si (R ⁴ ) (R ⁵ ) O- in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ , which may be identical or different, represent H or a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, cyclic or otherwise, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, preferably a C1-C12 alkyl which may optionally comprise one or more, preferably 1 to 5, identical or different heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, P, F and Si, preferably O, N and S;

- an oxyalkylene or aminoalkylene radical, particularly an alkylene oxide radical of the formula - (R "'O) _y R ^lv with R" representing a linear or branched C2-C _4, R ^IV is hydrogen or a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical and y is between 1 and 500 inclusive, preferably from 1 to 250;

- a mixture of these radicals.

In particular R ^b2 can be ^:

an alkylene radical having 1 to 40 carbon atoms or cycloalkylene having 3 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, with a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F, Si and Such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, n-pentylene, isobutylene, tert-butylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n-dodecylene, n-octadecylene, n-tetradecylene, n-docosanylene; 2-ethylhexylene, cyclohexylene, cyclohexylmethylene, isophorone;

a C1 to C30 alkylarylene or arylalkylene radical, preferably a C2 to C12 radical, and in particular a benzylene radical -C6H -CH ₂ - optionally substituted with a C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosen from O, N; S, F, Si and P;

- a mixture of these radicals.

Preferably, R ^b2 can be:

an alkylene radical having 1 to 12 carbon atoms or cycloalkylene having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, with a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, isobutylene, tert-butylene, n- pentylene, n-hexylene, n-octylene, n-dodecylene, n-octadecylene, cyclohexylene, cyclohexylemethylene, isophorone;

a C1 to C30 alkylarylene or arylalkylene radical, preferably a C2 to C12 radical, optionally substituted with a C1-C12 alkyl radical such as, for example, a benzylene radical -C6H -CH ₂ - or benzylene dimethylene.

The monomer (b2) preferably has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 60 and 1000, more particularly between 70 and 700 and better still 80 to 500.

Among the monomers (b2) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of:

aminoethanol, aminopropanol; 4-aminobutanol; 1-ethylaminobutan-2-ol; amino-2-methyl-2-propanol; methyl-4-amino-4-pentan-2-ol;

1,2-ethylenediamine; 1,2-propylenediamine; 1,3-propylenediamine; the 14th- diaminobutane; 1,5-diaminopentane; 1,6-diaminohexane; 2,6-toluenediamine;

1,4-butanediol; 1,6-hexanediol; 1,2-ethanediol; 1,2-propanediol; 1,3-propanediol;

neopentyl glycol; di (ethylene glycol) of formula HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) ₂ H; dihydroxy poly (ethylene oxide); dihydroxy poly (propylene oxide); poly (ethylene oxide / propylene oxide) dihydroxy copolymers;

1,2-benzenedimethanol, 1,4-benzenedimethanol; 1,4-dimethylol-cyclohexane;

1,2-benzenethiol;

- their mixtures.

When the monomer (b2) comprises at least one joining group, it may be of formula:

wherein R2 and Rx1 are as previously defined.

In a particular embodiment, the monomer (b2) may carry an ionizable group.

Among the anionizable monomers (b2), mention may be made of monomers comprising carboxylic (-COOH) and / or sulphonic (-SO3H) functions, in particular those of formula:

in which : - R "i represents H or an alkyl group having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, cyclic or otherwise, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or otherwise, and / or optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from O , S, P and N, and / or optionally substituted by one or more fluorine or silicon atoms; the heteroatom (s), when present, may be intercalated in the chain of said group, or said group may be substituted by one or more groups including them, such as hydroxyl or amino groups (NH ₂ , NHR 'or NR'R "with R' and R", which may be identical or different, representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 22 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl) ;

- R ^M 2, R ^M 3 and R " ₄ , identical or different, represent an alkylene (divalent alkyl) group having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, cyclic or not, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or otherwise, and / or optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, P and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or silicon atoms; the heteroatom (s), when present, may be intercalated in the chain of said group, or said group may be substituted with one or more groups including them, such as ester, amide, hydroxyl or amino groups (NH ₂ , NHR 'or NR'R "with R' and R" identical or different representing a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl).

X and X ', which are identical or different, represent O, S, NH, NR, where R is a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical; preferably X and X 'are O;

- Z, Z ', identical or different, represent a carboxylic acid function (- COOH) or sulfonic acid (-SO3H).

n, p, m and q are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1.

Preferably, the anionizable monomers (b2) are chosen from compounds of formula:

in which X, X ', R "1, R" 2, R "3, R" 4, m, n, p and Z are as defined above, and more particularly the compounds of formula:

where R "1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably CH ₃ , and x and y, which are identical or different, are between 1 and 5 due.

Preferred anionizable monomers (b2) include dimethylolpropionic acid, dimethylaminopropionic acid, N-ethylsulfonicimethanolamine, N-ethylsulfonic diethanolamine and diolbenzene sulfonic acid. It is clear that these anionic groups can be neutralized.

Among the cationizable or amphoteric monomers (b2), mention may be made especially of monomers bearing tertiary amine functions of formula:

XH-R ";N-R" ± ^X ' ^H XH-NH- -N-R6

m I

R6 7

in which :

- R ^M 2, ^M 3 and R " ₄ , identical or different, represent an alkylene group (divalent alkyl) having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, cyclic or not, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or not, and or optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, P and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or silicon atoms; the heteroatom (s), when present, may be intercalated in the chain of said group, or said group may be substituted by one or more groups including them, such as ester, amide, hydroxyl or amino groups (NH ₂ , NHR 'or NR'R "with R' and R", which are identical or different representing a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl).

n, p and m are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1;

- R6 and R ₇ represent a linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl group, preferably methyl, ethyl, lauryl or behenyl. Mention may especially be made of the monomers of formula:

in which X, X ', R "3, R" 4 and R6 are defined as above.

These include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine, N-ethyldiethanolamine and diaminopyridine.

It is clear that these cationic groups can be neutralized.

Mention may also be made, as cationic or amphoteric monomers (b2), in which the amine function is in a quaternary form, of formula:

as defined above.

The tertiary amine groups can be quaternized by mobile halogen compounds, especially alkyl halides such as C1-C12 alkyl chlorides or bromides, and for example methyl bromide or ethyl chloride. . These groups may also be quaternized with mobile halogen compounds having carboxylic or sulphonic acid functions, in particular sodium chloroacetate; or by cyclic sulfones, for example propanesulfone. Amphoteric monomers (or betaines, having at least one charge (+) and at least one charge (-) carried by the same monomer) are thus obtained. The quaternization can be carried out on the already synthesized polymer or on the starting monomers, before polymerization.

The polymer according to the invention may comprise, optionally, monomers (c) of YCN-R ₁ O structure with Y representing O or S; preferably O; and R ₀ represents a linear or branched, especially cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic carbon radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S; , P and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or silicon atoms; the heteroatom (s), when present, may be inserted in the chain of said radical, or said radical may be substituted by one or more groups including them such as ester and / or amide groups.

In a particular embodiment, R10 may also carry at least one joining group. In particular, YCN-R10 can answer the formula:

wherein R'10 may represent a divalent carbon-based radical chosen from a linear or branched alkyl group in C 1 -C 30 cycloalkyl, C ₄ -Ci2 aryl or C ₄ -Ci2; optionally comprising but not preferentially,

1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; as well as the mixtures of these meanings.

The polymer according to the invention may also optionally comprise monomers (d) of structure HX-Rn with:

X represents O, S, NH or NR, R represents a C1-C6 alkyl group; preferably, X = O; and

- Ru representing a radical carbon, including alkyl, having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, linear or branched, cyclic or not, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or not, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, P and N, and / or optionally substituted with one or more fluorine or silicon atoms; the heteroatom (s), when present, may be inserted in the chain of said radical, or said radical may be substituted by one or more groups including them such as ester and / or amide groups. These polymers are characterized by the presence of polyurethane and / or polyurea and / or polythiourethan and / or polythiourea blocks preferably corresponding to the following general formula: [XR ^b -X'-C (Y) NH-R ^a -NHC ( Y ') -] _X - in which X and X' come from the monomers (b), Y and Y 'come from the monomers (a), the radicals R ^b come from the monomers (b), that is to say that they represent, statistically, Rb1 and Rb2 as defined above; the radicals R ^a come from the monomers (a), and are as defined above; in particular, they may represent, statistically, the monomers R ^a of divalent aliphatic radical type (a1) and the monomers R ^a of polymeric type (a2); since at least one of Ra and / or Rb comprises at least one linking group A capable of forming at least 3 H bonds; x is an integer> 2.

Preferably, the monomers of the type HX-R ^b1- X'H (polymer) represent 10 to 95% by weight, especially 12 to 85% by weight, preferably 15 to 80% by weight, of the total weight of the final polymer.

Preferably, the monomers of type HX-R ^b2- X'H (small diol) represent 1 to 30% by weight, especially 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the final polymer.

These polymers (thio) urethane / (thio) urea can be prepared according to usual polycondensation methods and known to those skilled in the art. These methods are described in particular in the following works: - 60 Years of PUR - JE Kresta, EW Eldred Ed Technomic Publishing, 1998,

- Waterborne and Solvent Based Surface Coating Resins and Their Application, Surface Coating Technology Series, Vol. 3, Polyurethanes, Paul Thomas, John Wiley and Sons, 1998.

These polymers are in particular described in patent application EP1797868.

III /

The polymer that may be used in the context of the invention may also be a polymer based on polyalkene. By this is meant a polymer resulting from the reaction, in particular condensation, of at least one polyalkene polymer functionalized by at least one reactive group, with at least one linking group functionalized by at least one reactive group capable of reacting with the or the reactive groups of the functionalized polyalkene polymer, said joining group being capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, preferably 4 H bonds.

Preferably, the functionalized polyalkene polymer, capable of forming all or part of the polymer backbone of the polymer according to the invention, is of formula ΗΧ-Ρ-ΧΉ in which:

XH and ΧΉ are reactive groups, with X and X ', which may be identical or different, chosen from O, SH, NH or NR _a , R _a representing a C1-C6 alkyl group; preferably, X and / or X 'denote O; preferentially, X and X 'denote O;

- P represents a homo- or a copolymer obtainable by polymerization of one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀ , preferably C ₂ -C ₄ , mono- or polyunsaturated, linear, cyclic and / or branched alkenes; P preferably represents a polyethylene, a polybutylene, a polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly (1,3-pentadiene), a polyisobutylene, and their copolymers, and in particular a poly (ethylenebutylene).

Poly (ethylenebutylene) are copolymers of butene-1 and ethylene. They can be schematized by the following sequence of patterns:

[-CH2-CH2-] and [-CH ₂ CH (CH ₂ -CH ₃ ) -]

The polybutadienes may be 1,4-polybutadienes or 1,2-polybutadienes, which may be schematically represented by the following sequences of units:

[-CH ₂ -CH = CH-CH ₂ -] (polybutadienes 1, 4)

[-CH ₂ -CH (CH = CH ₂ ) -] (polybutadienes 1, 2)

Preferably, it is polybutadienes 1, 2.

The polyisoprenes can be schematized by the following sequences of patterns:

We can of course also use a mixture of patterns above, so to form copolymers.

Preferably, the functionalized polyalkene polymers have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) greater than or equal to 1000, especially between 1000 and 5000, or even between 1500 and 3500.

Functionalized polyalkene polymers may be totally hydrogenated to avoid the risk of crosslinking.

The supramolecular polymers may further comprise in their structure other units derived from other monomers. As comonomers, mention may in particular be made of styrene or epoxy. In a preferred embodiment, they do not include and therefore consist of polyalkene polymers (100%) to form the polymer backbone.

The polyalkene polymers are functionalized with at least one reactive group, preferably with at least two reactive groups. The functionalization is preferably at the end of chains. We are talking about telechelic polymers. The functionalizing groups, or reactive groups can be attached to the polymer via linkers polyalkene, preferably alkylene Ci-C ₄ linear or branched, or directly by a single bond. As a reactive group, the OH, NH ₂ , NHR, SH or NCO functions may be mentioned.

Among the preferred functionalized polyalkene polymers, mention may be made of poly-dienes, preferably hydrogenated, with hydroxyl functional groups, preferably with hydroxyl ends, and polyolefins with hydroxyl ends.

The polydienes with hydroxyl ends are especially defined for example in FR2782723. They can be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of polybutadiene, polyisoprene and poly (1,3-pentadiene). Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) of less than 7000, preferably of between 1000 and 5000; and have a functionality in hydroxyl ends of 1, 8 to 3, and preferably close to 2. Mention may be made in particular of the hydroxylated polybutadienes marketed by the company ELF ATOCHEM under the trade marks POLY BD R-45HT and POLY BD R-20 LM, which will preferably be hydrogenated; as well as dihydroxylated (1,2-polybutadienes), such as GI3000 of Mn = 3100, GI2000 (Mn = 2100) and GI1000 (Mn = 1500) marketed by Nisso.

Among the polyolefins with hydroxyl ends, mention may preferably be made of polyolefins, homopolymers or copolymers with α, ω hydroxyl ends, such as polyisobutylenes with α, ω hydroxyl ends; and copolymers of formula:

especially those marketed by Mitsubishi under the POLYTAIL brand.

The supramolecular polymers according to the invention also have in their structure at least one remainder of a junction group capable of forming at least 3 H bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, said joining group being initially functionalized by at least one reactive group.

The reactive groups can be attached to the linking group via linkers, preferably alkylene Ci-C ₄ linear or branched, or directly by a single bond.

The said reactive groups must be capable of reacting with the reactive group or groups carried by the functionalized polyalkene. As a reactive group, there may be mentioned carboxy, hydroxy, amino or isocyanate groups. Preferably, it is a group -N = C = O or -N = C = S, and even more preferably a group - N = C = O (isocyanate).

Preferably, the linker is a phenylene group; 1,4-nitrophenyl; 1, 2-ethylene; 1,6-hexylene; 1,4-butylene; 1,6 (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene); 1,4- (4-methylpentylene); 1,5-5-methylhexylene; 1, 6- (6-methylheptylene); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene); 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); -isophorone-; 4,4'-methylene bis-cyclohexylene; tolylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4-biphenylenemethylene;

and preferably: -isophorone-; - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -; - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -; -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) -CH ₂ -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ ; 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene.

Isophorone means the following group:

Even better, there can be mentioned as linking groups capable of forming at least 3 H bonds, groups derived from ureïdopyrimidones, and in particular 2-ureidopyrimidone or 6-methyl, 2-ureidopyrimidone.

Unless otherwise specified, the term "junction group" in the present description refers to the group without its reactive function.

The functionalized junction groups capable of reacting with the functionalized polyalkene polymer are preferably of formula:

in which L is a single bond or a divalent (alkylene), saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, C1-C20, linear, cyclic and / or branched, optionally comprising 1 to 4 N and / or O heteroatoms, especially under form of substituent NO ₂ , and in particular a phenylene group; 1,4-nitrophenyl; 1,2-ethylene; 1,6-hexylene; 1,4-butylene; 1,6 (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene); 1,4- (4-methylpentylene); 1,5-5-methylhexylene; 1, 6- (6-methylheptylene); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene); 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); -isophorone-; 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; tolylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4 biphénylèneméthylène; and preferably: -isophorone-; - (CH ₂ ) 2-; - (CH ₂ ) 6-; CH ₂ CH (CH 3) -CH ₂ -C (CH ₃ ) 2 -CH 2 -CH 2; 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene.

In a preferred embodiment, the polymer according to the invention has the formula:

in which :

- L 'and L "have, independently of each other, the meaning indicated above for L;

X, X 'and P have the meanings indicated above for the functionalized polyalkene polymer.

Preferably, X = X - O.

Preferably, L 'and L "represent a divalent (alkylene), saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 20 linear, cyclic and / or branched carbon group, and in particular an -isophorone- group - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -; CH ₂ CH (CH 3) -CH ₂ -C (CH 3) 2 -CH ₂ -CH ₂ ; 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene;

Preferably, P represents a polyethylene, a polybutylene, a polybutadiene, a polyisoprene, a poly (1,3-pentadiene), a polyisobutylene, or a copolymer thereof, especially a poly (ethylene-butylene).

This polymer may be prepared by the methods usually employed by those skilled in the art, in particular to form a urethane bond between the free OH functions of a polyalkene, and the isocyanate functional groups carried by the linking group.

By way of illustration, a first general method of preparation consists of:

optionally, ensuring that the polymer to be functionalized has no residual water,

heating said polymer comprising at least one reactive functional group, in particular 2 reactive functional groups, in particular OH, at a temperature which may be between 60 ° C. and 140 ° C .; the hydroxyl number of the polymer that can be used as a reference in order to measure the progress of the reaction;

- Add, preferably directly, the junction group carrying the reactive functions, including isocyanate;

optionally stirring the mixture, under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature of the order of 90-130 ° C .; for 1 to 24 hours;

- optionally follow by infrared spectroscopy, the disappearance of the characteristic band of isocyanates (between 2500 and 2800 cm-1) so as to stop the reaction to the total disappearance of the peak, then allow the final product to return to ambient temperature. The reaction can also be followed by assays of the hydroxyl functions; it is also possible to add ethanol to ensure the total disappearance of residual isocyanate functions.

The reaction can be carried out in the presence of a solvent, especially methyltetrahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene, propylene carbonate or butyl acetate. It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst for urethane bond formation. By way of example, mention may be made of dibutyl tin dilaurate. The polymer may ultimately be washed and dried, or even purified, according to the general knowledge of the skilled person.

According to the ^2nd method of preparation, the reaction may include the following steps:

(i) functionalization of the polymer, preferably dried beforehand, with a diisocyanate according to the reaction scheme:

OH-polymer-OH (1 eq.) + NCO-X-NCO (1 eq.) → OCN-X-NH- (O) CO-polymer-OC (O) -NH-X-NCO

The diisocyanate may be optionally in excess of the polymer. This first step can be done in the presence of solvent, at a temperature between 20 ° C and 100 ° C. This first step can be followed by a stirring period under a controlled atmosphere for 1 to 24 hours. The mixture can be optionally heated. The state of progress of this first step can be followed by a determination of the hydroxyl functions.

then

(ii) reaction of the prepolymer obtained above with 6-methylisocytosine of the formula:

this second step may optionally be carried out in the presence of a co-solvent such as toluene, butyl acetate or propylene carbonate. The reaction mixture can be heated between 80 ° C and 140 ° C for a time varying between 1 to 24 hours. The presence of a catalyst, especially dibutyltin dilaurate, may favor the obtaining of the desired final product.

The reaction can be followed by infrared spectroscopy, following the disappearance of the peak characteristic of the isocyanate between 2200 and 2300 cm-1. At the end of the reaction, ethanol may be added to the reaction medium in order to neutralize the residual isocyanate functional groups. The reaction mixture may be optionally filtered. The polymer can also be stripped directly into a cosmetic solvent.

Such polymers are described in particular in application EP09173746.0.

Definition of joining groups According to the present invention, a linking group is a chemical group, especially a carbon group, capable of forming at least three H bonds, preferably at least four H bonds, and comprising at least one unit of formula (Ia):

The unit (1a) is linked to the linking group by a linker (linking agent) which may be a single covalent bond or a linear, branched or cyclic, C1-C60, saturated carbon (especially alkyl) divalent radical. or not, optionally aromatic, which may contain one or more heteroatoms.

In particular, the linker can be a C ₄ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl group; a linear or branched C ₁ -C 30 alkyl group or a C ₄ -C ₁₂ aryl group; optionally substituted with an amino, ester and / or hydroxy function.

Preferably, the linker is -C ₄ H ₉ , phenyl; 1,4-nitrophenyl, or 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6 (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4-methylpentylene, 1,5-5-methylhexylene ), 1, 6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene) or 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); isophorone-, 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4,4-biphenylenemethylene, and preferably: -isophorone-, - ( CH ₂ ) 2-, - (CH ₂ ) 6-, -CH ₂ CH (CH 3) -CH ₂ -C (CH ₃ ) 2 -CH 2 -CH 2, 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3 phenylene.

Cosmetic assets

The cosmetic active agents bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention (top-coat) are defined below.

In the present invention, the term "cosmetic active agent" is intended to mean any compound, polymer or molecule capable of providing a cosmetic effect, including color, to keratin materials.

In particular, these cosmetic active agents can be chosen from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

the cosmetic active ingredients for the care and / or transformation of the keratinous fiber; especially those of formula (II), (III),

- dyes, including direct dyes and fluorescent dyes;

polymeric hydrophilic chains;

silicone chains;

fatty substances, in particular oils and so-called 'supramolecular' waxes;

- UV filters,

hyaluronic acid, - capsules;

it being understood that these cosmetic active agents carry at least one formula

(the). 1 / The cosmetic active skincare and / or transformation of keratin fibers preferably correspond to formula (II) or formula (III).

The active compounds of formula (II), as well as their salts, addition salts, isomers and auto-solvates, are:

in which :

- R1 and R2, independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -NRR '(with R, R', which may be identical or different, being H or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical of preferably C1-C4 and better still a methyl or ethyl radical); or a linear, branched and / or cyclic, in C1-C18, preferably C1-C12, saturated or non-saturated, optionally aromatic, carbon-containing group which may contain one or more heteroatoms O, N and / or S, in particular OH , COOH and / or NRR '.

The radicals R 1 and R 2 may especially be chosen from:

- H;

- NH ₂ ,

a C1-C18 alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more NH ₂ , COOH and / or OH functions;

a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more NH ₂ , COOH and / or OH functions;

a C4-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted with one or more NH ₂ , COOH and / or OH functions; and / or optionally substituted by one or more PEG groups of formula - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) m - with m = 2 to 15;

a C1-C4 alkoxy group;

a (C 1 -C 4) aryl-alkoxy group; optionally substituted with one or more NH ₂ , COOH and / or OH functions.

Preferably R1 represents H.

Preferably, R 2 is H, CH ₃ , C ₇ H ₁₅ , C 13 H ₂₇ or aryl.

Preferably, R1 = H and R2 = methyl.

Z represents a monovalent radical chosen from:

(i) a hydrogen atom,

(ii) a C1 to C32 linear or branched (saturated) alkyl radical; especially C2-C24, or even C3-C18, more preferably C4-C12; (iii) a C2 to C32 linear or branched (unsaturated) alkene radical having one or two C = C double bonds; especially C2-C24, or even C3-C18;

(iv) a C 1 -C 32 alkyl radical, in particular C 2 -C 24 or even C 3 -C 18, better still C 4 -C 12, substituted by a C 6 -C 10 aryl, in particular C 6 -C 8 aryl; in particular phenyl;

said radicals possibly being substituted with 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 6 or even 3 to 5, groups chosen from -OH, -OR, -SH, -SR, -SO 3 H, -SO 3 R, -SO ₂ NRR ', -COOH , -COOR, -CONRR ', -NR-C (O) -NRR', -NRR 'and -N ⁺ RR'R ", with R, R' and R" = H or C 1 -C 6 alkyl, especially methyl ; and the substituents of formula (a) to (h) below:

OSiMe OEt OMe OEt

I ³ III

-Si-Me Si- -Si-OMe -Si-OEt

I I I I

OSiMe _Q OEt OMe OEt

(a) (b) (c) (d)

and / or said radicals possibly comprising 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 6, or even 3 to 5, divalent groups chosen from, alone or as a mixture, -S-, S (O), SO ₂ , -NH- (or = NH), -O-, -C (O) -, -C (= NH) -, -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -An ^" (An ^" : anion); or else - N = (trivalent).

For the sake of clarity, it is specified that the radical Z can not include a grouping:

R2 Preferably, the radical Z comprises 0 to 12 heteroatoms, in particular 1 to 10, or even 2 to 6 heteroatoms.

Preferably, the radical Z, when it is substituted, is 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 6 or even 3 to 5, groups chosen from -OH, -SH, -SO 3 H, -COOH, -NRR 'and - N ⁺ RR'R ", with R, R 'and R" = H or C 1 -C 6 alkyl, especially methyl; and the substituents of formula (a) to (h).

Preferably, the radical Z, when it is interrupted, is 1 to 8, in particular 2 to 6, or even 3 to 5, divalent groups chosen from, alone or as a mixture, -S-, -NH- (or = NH), -O-, -C (O) -, -C (= NH) -, -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -.

Among the compounds of formula (II) that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the following compounds:

41

Fiber care or transformation actives can also meet formula (III):

in which :

n = 1, 2, 3 or 4; preferably n = 1 or n = 2;

R1, R'1, R2 and R'2, which are identical or different within the same formula, represent H, -OH, -NRR '(with R, R', which may be identical or different, being H or alkyl radical, linear or branched C 1 -C 12, preferably C 1 -C 4 and more preferably a methyl or ethyl radical); or a linear, branched and / or cyclic, in C1-C18, preferably C1-C12, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, carbon-containing group, which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, N; these heteroatoms may in particular be present in the OH radical, COOH and / or NRR 'form.

The radicals R 1, R 2, R '1, R' 2 may especially be chosen from:

- H;

- NH ₂ ,

a C1-C18 alkyl group, optionally substituted or interrupted by a quaternary ammonium radical, and / or optionally substituted by one or more amino (NH ₂ ), ester (COOH) and / or hydroxyl (OH) functions; a C 4 -C 12 cycloalkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more amino (NH ₂ ), ester (COOH) and / or hydroxy (OH) functions;

a C4-C12 aryl group, optionally substituted with one or more amino (NH ₂ ), ester (COOH) and / or hydroxy (OH) functions; and / or optionally substituted by one or more PEG groups of formula - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) m - with m = 2 to 15;

a C1-C4 alkoxy group;

a (C 1 -C 4) aryl-alkoxy group; optionally substituted by one or more amino (NH ₂ ), ester (COOH) and / or hydroxy (OH) functions.

Preferably R1 and / or R'1 represent H.

Preferably, R2 and / or R '2 are H, CH _3, C7H15, Ci3H ₂₇ or aryl; preferably methyl. Z represents a multivalent radical (divalent to pentavalent, according to the value of n), chosen from:

(i) a linear or branched, in particular saturated or unsubstituted C1 to C32 hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl); optionally interrupted or substituted, one or more times, with an optionally aromatic C3-C12 (hetero) ring; or - (ii) a carbon radical, in particular C3-C12 hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) (hetero) cyclic, optionally aromatic; optionally substituted by one or more carbon radicals, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, in C1 to C32;

said radical possibly being:

- substituted with 1-12 groups selected from -OH, -SO3R, -OSO3R, -SO 3 H, - OSO ₃ H, -COOH, -COOR, -CONRR ', and -N ⁺ RR'R ", with R, R' and R "= C1 - C12 alkyl, especially methyl; and or

interrupted by 1 to 12 (inclusive), in particular 1 to 4, or even 1 to 3 maximum, groups chosen from:

-

with

- Ra = H or halogen, in particular Cl, or C1-C6 alkyl, and

- R 'and R ", identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a carbon radical, linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated, in particular alkyl, comprising 1 to 22 carbon atoms, (i) optionally substituted by a or several groups pment selected from -SO3R1, -OSO3R1, -COOR1, -Si (OR) _3, -N ⁺ RIR ₂ R ₃ or - NR1R2, wherein Ri, R 2 and R ₃ independently of one another are chosen from H and C 1 -C 22 alkyl, especially C 1 -C 12 alkyl, preferably methyl; and / or (ii) optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from -NH-, -O-, -C (O) - (alone or in combination);

- (ii) trivalent groups:

R 'being as defined above for the divalent groups, said trivalent groups being generally present at the junction of said radicals (especially when Z is trivalent).

Preferably, said radical Z comprises at least one heteroatom chosen from N, O and S, preferably chosen from N and S, and more preferably at least one nitrogen heteroatom.

The radical Z may be preferably a linear or branched, saturated (divalent to pentavalent) alkyl radical comprising 1 to 32, in particular 2 to 18, or even 3 to 12, carbon atoms, it being understood that it comprises at least one moreover a heteroatom selected from N, O and S, especially in the form of a substitution or interruption group as defined above.

Preferably, said heteroatom may be present in the chain in the form of the following substitution groups -COOH, -COOMe, -CONRR ', and / or in the form of the following interruption groups: S, O, -NR'-, -N ⁺ (R ') (R ") - or N (trivalent) In particular, the heteroatoms may be present in the form of a combination such as, for example -C (O) O-; -OC (O) O-, -NR'C (O) -, -NR'C (O) NR "-, -NR'C (O) O-, -NRSO2-, -NR-SO2-NR'-, or even in form - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) x- with x = 2 to 5. Preferably R 'and R "represent H or a C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical, in particular methyl or ethyl.

The compounds of formula (III) can respond very particularly to the following structure (R1 = R'1 = H):

And even better to the structures below:

wherein Z and n are as defined above, preferably with n = 1.

Preferably, the radical Z represents a divalent or trivalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C32, comprising at least one unit of the type: -O-; -NR'-, -N ⁺ R'R "-, -S-, -C (O) O-; -OC (O) O-; -NR'C (O) -, - NR'C (O) NR "-, -NR'C (O) O-, - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) x-; with R 'and R "selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C22 alkyl chain, C3-C7 cycloalkyl.

Among the compounds of formula (III) that may be of interest, mention may be made of the following compounds:





A + = Na +, K +, NH ₄ +

A + = Na +, K +, NH ₄ +

X- = Cl-, Br- as well as the following compounds

The dyestuffs may be chosen in particular from direct dyes or fluorescent dyes, it being understood that these dyestuffs carry at least one unit of formula (Ia).

In particular, the dyestuff can be of formula (a): (COLOR) n (SAU) m in which:

(COLOR) represents any chromophore with a maximum absorption between 300 nm and 1200 nm, covalently bonded to (SAU),

(SAU) represents an acceptor / donor radical capable of forming at least three hydrogen bonds, and capable of associating under appropriate conditions, n and m are integers greater than or equal to 1;

as well as its addition salts and solvates. When n is greater than 1, the radicals (COLOR) may be the same or different. When m is greater than 1, the radicals (SAU) may be the same or different.

The coloring active agents of formula (a) are for example described in patent applications EP1310533 and EP1486539.

Chromophores which may be used in the present invention include radicals derived from acridine dyes, acridones, anthranthrones, anthrapyrimidines, anthraquinones, azines, azoethines, azomethines, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyridines and the like. benzothiazoles, benzoquinones, bisazines, bis-isoindolines, carboxanilides, coumarins, cyanines (azacarbocyanine, diazacarbocyanine, diazahemicyanine, hemicyanine, tetraazacarbocyanine), diazines, diketopyrrolopyrroles, dioxazines, diphenylamines, diphenylmethanes, dithiazines, flavonoids such as flavanthrones and flavones, fluorindines, formazans, hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones, hydroxyketones, indamines, indanthrones, indigoides and pseudo-ionogens, indophenols, indoanilines, isoindolines, isoindolines, isoindolinones, isoviolanthrones, lactones, methines, naphthalimides, naphthhanilides, naphtholacotamines, naphthoquinones, nitro including nitro- (hetero) aromatics, oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones, perinones, perylenes, phenazines, phenothiazines, phthalocyanine, polyenes / carotenoids, porphyrins, pyranthrones, pyrazolantrones, pyrazolones, pyrimidinoanthrones, pyronines, quinacridones, quinolines, quinophthalones; , squaranes, stilbenes, tetrazoliums, thiazines, thioindigo, thiopyronines, triarylmethanes, xanthenes.

Among the nitro chromophores that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of the radicals derived from the following dyes:

-1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene

-1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene

-1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis (hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene

-1,4-bis (hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene

1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) benzene

-1-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene

1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (β-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene

-1-amino-3-methyl-4-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene

-1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene

-1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene

-1-amino-2-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene

-1,2-bis (4-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene

-1-amino-2-tris (hydroxymethyl) methylamino-5-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene -1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene

-1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylannino-5-nitrobenzene

-1-Methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylannino-5-nitrobenzene

1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylannino-4-nitrobenzene

-1-¾-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylannino-4-nitrobenzene

1-β-hydroxyethylannino-4-β, γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene

-1-N-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene

-1-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene

-1-β-hydroxyethylannino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene

-1-B-Anninoethylannino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-6-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -annino-3-nitrobenzene

-1-β-hydroxyethylannino-2-nitrobenzene

-1-Hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylannino-3-nitrobenzene.

Mention may also be made, among the azo chromophores, of the following compounds, described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3 ^rd edition:

-Disperse Red 17

-Acid Yellow 9

-Acid Black 1

-Basic Red 22

-Basic Red 76

-Basic Yellow 57

-Basic Brown 16

-Acid Yellow 36

-Acid Orange 7

-Acid Red 33

-Acid Red 35

-Basic Brown 17

-Acid Yellow 23

-Acid Orange 24

-Disperse Black 9.

There may also be mentioned 1 - (4'-aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4bis- (-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene and 4-hydroxy-3- (2-methoxyphenylazo) -1-naphthalene sulfonic acid.

Among the quinonic chromophores, mention may be made of the radicals derived from the following dyes:

-Disperse Red 15

-Solvent Purple 13

-Acid Violet 43

-Disperse Violet 1

-Disperse Violet 4 -Disperse Blue 1

-Disperse Violet 8

-Disperse Blue 3

-Disperse Red 1 1

-Acid Blue 62

-Disperse Blue 7

-Basic Blue 22

-Disperse Violet 15

-Basic Blue 99

as well as the following compounds:

-1-Aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone

-1-Aminopropylaminoanthraquinone

-5- -hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone

-2-Aminoéthylaminoanthraquinone

-1,4-Bis (dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone.

Of the azine chromophores, those listed in the Color Index are suitable

International and for example the radicals resulting from the following dyes:

-Basic Blue 17

-Basic Red 2.

Among the triarylmethane chromophores that may be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned, besides those listed in the Color Index, the radicals resulting from the following dyes:

-Basic Green 1

-Acid blue 9

-Basic Violet 3

-Basic Violet 14

-Basic Blue 7

-Acid Violet 49

-Basic Blue 26

-Acid Blue 7

Among the indoamine chromophores that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the radicals derived from the following dyes:

-2-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis- (4'-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino-1,4-benzoquinone -2-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1, 4-benzoquinone

-3-N (2'-Chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3-N (3'-chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6- methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3- [4'-N- (ethyl, carbamylmethyl) amino] -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine.

Mention may also be made of the chromophores described in the documents US5888252, EP1 133975, WO03 / 029359, EP860636, WO95 / 01772, WO95 / 15144 and EP714954. We can also mention those described in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academy press vol 1 to 7 ", in the encyclopedia" Kirk Othmer, Chemical technology, chapter 'dyes and dye intermediate' , 1993, Wiley and sons ", and in various chapters of the encyclopedia"ULLMANN's

ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial Chemistry, 7th Edition, Wiley and Sons. "

Preferred chromophores are those absorbing light between 380 nm and 850 nm.

In another embodiment, the coloring active agent may be of formula (b): (FLUO) n (SAU) m in which:

(FLUO) represents any fluorescent chromophore, covalently bound to (SAU), (SAU), m and n having the meaning given above for (a),

as well as its addition salts and solvates.

When n is greater than 1, the radicals (FLUO) may be the same or different. When m is greater than 1, the radicals (SAU) may be the same or different.

According to the present invention, the term "fluorescent chromophore" means a radical derived from a fluorescent compound. A fluorescent compound is a compound that is capable of absorbing in UV or visible radiation at a wavelength A _to b between 250 and 800 nm and capable of reemitting in the visible range at a wavelength of emission A _em between 400 and 800 nm.

Preferably, the fluorescent compounds are dyes capable of absorbing in the visible range A _n between 400 and 800 nm and reemitting in the visible A _em between 400 and 800 nm. More preferably, the fluorescent dyes are dyes capable of absorbing at A _to b between 420 nm and 550 nm and reemitting in the visible at an A _em between 470 and 600 nm. Fluorescent chromophores which may be used in the present invention include radicals derived from acridine dyes, acridones, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyrans, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro [2-] (2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN) methyl] -1H-pyrrolato-kN} bores (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolopyrroles, fluorindines, (poly) methines (especially cyanines and styryls / hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthhanilides, naphthylamine ( such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, perilones, perinones, perylenes, polyenes / carotenoids, squarans, stilbenes, xantenes.

Mention may also be made of the fluorescent dyes described in the documents EP1 133975, WO03 / 029359, EP860636, WO95 / 01772, WO95 / 15144 and EP714954 and those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Académie press, vol 1 -7 ", in the encyclopedia" Kirk Othmer "" Chemical technology ", chapter" dyes and dye intermediate ", 1993, Wiley and sounds, and in various chapters of the encyclopedia"ULLMANN's ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial Chemistry "7th ed., Wiley and sounds, in The Handbook - A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies, 10th ed. Molecular Probes / Invitrogen; Oregon 2005 on the Internet or in editions previously printed.

Coloring agents that may also be mentioned are those described in patent application EP2083791.

The radical (SAU) preferably comprises at least one structural unit (la) as defined above (ureidopyrimidone).

The radicals (SAU) and (COLOR) or (FLUO) may comprise one or more link arms L depending on the values of n and / or m, such that:

- alkylene radicals, linear or branched, optionally substituted;

cycloalkylene radicals, which are optionally substituted;

the arylenes radicals, optionally substituted;

saturated or unsaturated heterocyclic radicals

amino radicals (-NH- or -NR-) or -O-, -SO-, -SO2- or -C (O) -;

as well as their combinations of the same class and / or different categories, leading in particular to cycloalkylene alkylenes, biscycloalkylenes, biscycloalkylenesalkylenes, arylenealkylenes, bisphenylenesalkylenes, oxyalkylenes and aminoalkylenes. These radicals may optionally be substituted, in particular with one or more C1-C12 alkyl groups, optionally comprising heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, F and P, and combinations thereof.

Among the optionally substituted alkylene radicals, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C30 alkylene radicals, for example methylene, ethylene, butylene, in particular 1,4-butylene, and 1,6-hexylene radicals and C3-C10 branched alkylene radicals; such as 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,6- (2,2,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,5-5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene) ), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethyl hexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyl octylene), 2,2- (dimethylpropylene) and 1,6-2,4,4-trimethyl hexylene).

Among the optionally substituted cycloalkylene radicals, there may be mentioned cyclopentylene and cyclohexylene radicals, optionally substituted in particular with alkyl groups.

Among the cycloalkylene alkylenes, mention may be made, for example, of the isophorone radical. Among the optionally substituted biscycloalkylenealkylenes radicals, there may be mentioned for example the radicals of formula:

where b is an integer of 0 to 3, n is an integer of 0 to 4; and R4, which may be identical or different, represents H or a C1-C12 alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical; mention may especially be made of 4,4'-methylene biscyclohexylene.

Among the optionally substituted arylene radicals, mention may be made, for example the phenylene radical, the tolylene radicals, in particular the 2,4- and 2,6-tolylene radicals, and the naphthylene radicals, in particular 2,4-naphthylene or 2,6-naphthylene radicals.

Among the optionally substituted arylenealkylenes radicals that may be mentioned for example are phenylene-alkylene radicals such as the benzylene radical:

in which p is an integer of 0 to 5.

Among the optionally substituted alkylene bisphenyl radicals, there may be mentioned, for example, the radicals of formula (i):

where b is an integer of 0 to 3, and m is an integer of 0 to 4; such as the bis-phenylene radical and the 4,4'-methylene bisphenylene radical,

and the radicals of formula (ii):

( ^R 4) ₄ -m

in which m is an integer of 0 to 4, and the radicals Ra, which are identical or different, represent H or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical. Among the optionally substituted oxyalkylene radicals, there may be mentioned, for example, the alkylene oxide radicals of formula -O- (R'O) y - where R ', which is identical or different, represents a linear or branched C2-C4 alkylene radical. , especially ethylene or propylene; and y is an integer of 1 to 500, preferably 1 to 200 and more preferably 5 to 100.

By way of example of linking arms, mention may be made of methylene, ethylene, linear or branched propylene, linear or branched butylene, linear or branched pentylene or linear or branched hexylene radicals, optionally substituted and / or interrupted as indicated above. .

As examples of saturated or unsaturated aromatic or non-aromatic ring or heterocycle interrupting the alkyl radical of the linking arm, mention may be made of phenylene or naphthylene, phenanthrylene, triazinyl, pyrimidinyl, pyridinyl and pyridazinyl radicals. quinoxalinyl, cyclohexyl. As examples of linking arms, mention may be made of the following radicals:

n "= integer between 0 and 4

m = integer between 0 and 6

n "= integer between 0 and 4 m = integer between 0 and 6

m = integer between 0 and 6

n '"= integer between 0 and 3 formulas in which:

- (i) R 'represents:

an optionally substituted C1-C16 alkyl radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or by one or more groups comprising at least one heteroatom, preferably chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur such as CO, SO2 or their combinations;

a hydroxyl group,

a C1-C4 alkoxy group.

a C2-C4 (poly) hydroxyalkoxy group;

an alkoxycarbonyl group (RO-CO-) in which R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

an alkylcarbonyloxy radical (RCO-O-) in which R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

an alkylcarbonyl radical (R-CO-) in which R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

an amino group; an amino group substituted with one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; the two alkyl radicals which can optionally form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle containing 1 to 3 heteroatoms, preferably 1 to 2 heteroatoms, chosen from N, O, S, preferably N, comprising from 5-7 membered, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or otherwise, optionally substituted;

an alkylcarbonylamino group (RCO-NR'-) in which the radical R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical and the radical R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

an aminocarbonyl group ((R) 2 N-CO-) in which the radicals R independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

a ureido group (N (R) 2 -CO-NR'-) in which the radicals R and R ', independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

an aminosulphonyl group ((R) 2 N -SO 2 -) in which the radicals R independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

an alkylsulphonylamino group (RSO2-NR'-) in which the radicals R, R ', independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

an alkylthio group (RS-) in which the radical R represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

an alkylsulfinyl group (R-SO-) in which R represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

an alkylsulphonyl group (R-SO2-) in which R represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

a nitro group;

a cyano group;

a halogen atom, preferably chlorine or fluorine;

- (ii) R "identical, represent a hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

- (iii) R8 and R9 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen, a C1-C8 alkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more identical or different radicals chosen from hydroxyl, C1-C2 alkoxy, (poly ) C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, amino, (C 1 -C 2) (di) alkylamino or optionally substituted aryl.

Preferably, (COLOR) and (SAU) comprise one to three linker arms.

The addition salts with an acid may be the addition salts with an organic or inorganic acid such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid or (alkyl- or phenyl-) sulphonic acids such as the acid p- toluenesulphonic acid or methylsulfonic acid, or salts of carboxylic acids such as, for example, acetates, lactates, benzoates, salicylates, citrates. Solvates can be hydrates. The coloring agents that may be used may, in particular, correspond to one of the following formulas:

Formula 1 .

, _{1 1} , Colorant

H HN ¹

R-'y ^N Y ^N Y ^* ° Ν ^{'* Η} Ν ^ Ν

N · Ν »| _ |, Ν, c ^A N ^A N ^'R

H H

Dye

in which :

the groups Coloranti and Dye2 are as defined for (COLOR), and R represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, an acyl group substituted or unsubstituted, a substituted or unsubstituted sulfonyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted phosphoryl group or a heterocyclic group, L represents a linking arm as defined above.

Formula 2

in which

L represents a connecting arm;

- dye is as defined previously,

- n2 and o, identical or different, are greater than or equal to 1; m2 can be greater than or equal to 0,

- R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkoxy group, a thioalkoxy group; substituted or unsubstituted, a substituted or unsubstituted sulfoxy group, a substituted or unsubstituted sulfone group, a substituted or unsubstituted amino group, a nitrile group, a saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted acyl group, or unsubstituted, a substituted or unsubstituted sulfonyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group or a (COLORING) group, or R1 and R2 represent the atoms necessary to form a kernel system;

Y represents a divalent COLORING group.

Formula 3

R

N ^ N

Coloring e. . A .. H

1 N N N

I I

H H

wherein R represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group, a dye, OR1 or NR2R3;

R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted acyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted sulfonyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a group heterocyclic, a Colorantl or Colorant2 group; R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group, a substituted or unsubstituted acyl group a substituted or unsubstituted sulfonyl group, a Colorantl or Colorant2 group, or R2 and R3 represent the atoms necessary to form a ring with the nitrogen atom;

Colorantl and Colorant2 groups are as defined for Colorant.

When R2 and / or R3 represent a hydrogen atom, then an additional hydrogen bond is formed in formula 3)

Formula 4

H H H H

Dye ^. -N ^ N ^. ^ N ^ N ... Coloring ₁

O O

Colorantl and Colorant2 groups are as defined for COLORANT.

L1, L2 and L3 are identical or different and represent a link arm such as previously defined.

Formula 5

in which

R represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group, a Colorantl or Colorant2 group, OR1 or NR2R3 group;

R1 represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group or a heterocyclic group;

R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group or R2 and R3 represent the necessary atoms to form a ring with the nitrogen atom;

Colorantl and Colorant2 groups are as defined for COLORANT.

Formula 6.

Colorant., Colorant., Colorant.

R1 and R2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group, OR3 or NR4R5;

R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group or a heterocyclic group;

R4 and R5 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a heterocyclic group or R4 and R5 represent the necessary atoms to form a cycle with nitrogen; Colorantl and Colorant2 groups are as defined for COLORANT.

Form 7.

n7 is at least 1;

m7 is 0 or 1;

for m7 = 1, X is O, NR3, (CH2) p wherein p is 0, 1 or 2; R1 and R2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted acyl group, a sulfonyl group substituted or unsubstituted, a heterocyclic group or R1 and R2 represent the atoms necessary to form a ring system;

R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group;

the COLORING group is as defined above and comprises a link arm;

L represents a link arm.

Formula 8.

X is O, NR3, (CH2) n where n is at least 1;

R1 and R2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted acyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted sulfonyl group, a heterocyclic group or R1 and R2 represent the atoms necessary to form a ring with the nitrogen atom;

the COLORING group is as defined previously

Formula 9.

wherein the Coloranti and Dye2 groups are as defined for (COLOR);

R1 and R2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted acyl group, a sulfonyl group substituted or unsubstituted, a substituted or unsubstituted cycloalkyl group or a heterocyclic group;

X is NR3 or CR4R5; R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted cycloalkyl group or a heterocyclic group; R4 and R5 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group or a heterocyclic group or R4 and R5 represent the necessary atoms to form a ring with the nitrogen atom;

L represents a linker as defined above.

Formula 10.

wherein (COLORAN) is as previously defined, R1 and R2 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group; substituted, substituted or unsubstituted acyl group, substituted or unsubstituted sulfonyl group, substituted or unsubstituted cycloalkyl group or heterocyclic group; X is NR3 or CR4R5; R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted cycloalkyl group or a heterocyclic group; R4 and R5 are the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom, a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group, a substituted or unsubstituted aralkyl group or a heterocyclic group or R4 and R5 represent the necessary atoms to form with the nitrogen atom a cycle.

In particular, mention may be made of the coloring agents below

Dye 2

Dye 3

Colorant 4

Colorant 5

Colorant 6

Colorant 7

Dye 8

Dye 12

Color 13

Dye 14

Colorant 15

Colorant 16

Colorant 17

Colorant 20

Colorant 22

Colorant 23

Colorant 24 R, R '= isobutyl Colorant R = ethylhexyl, R' = H

Colorant 27 Colorant 28!

oorant

^' ^ 0 ¥ V Q-CN Colorant 31

Colorant 32

Colorant 33

Colorant 34

Colorant 35

3 / polymeric hydrophilic chains

Hydrophilic chains are characterized in that they contain the repetition of monomeric units whose log P is less than 2, preferably less than 1; it being understood that these chains carry at least one unit of formula (Ia).

These chains preferably have a number-average molecular weight (Mn) of between 200 and 100,000 g / mol, more preferably between 250 and 50,000 g / mol and more preferably between 300 and 50,000 g / mol.

These include:

water-soluble synthetic polymers, such as, for example, polyvinylpyrrolidone backbones, polyvinyl alcohol (partially or totally deprotected), polyvinylamine (partially or completely deprotected), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylmethylether, polyvinyl arylsulfonate, polyalkyl (methyl or ethyl) oxazoline, polyvinylpyrrolidone; allylamine, polydiallylamine, polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride, ethylene polyoxide (PEG) or its copolymers, in particular PEG / PPO (with a PEG content greater than 25% compared with the PPO in number of repeating units), polyacrylic acid, poly (N N, dimethylacrylamide), poly (hydroxyethyl methacrylate), poly (hydroxypropyl methacrylamide), and copolymers thereof

oligosaccharides, polysaccharides such as dextran, dextran sulfate, amylose, hydroxypropylcellulose, glycoaminoglycans (chondroitin sulfate), hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, alginate, chitosan, inulin;

polyamino acids such as, for example, polyglutamic acids, polylysine, polyornithine, polyarginine, and copolymers thereof. 4 / silicone chains

The silicone chains are in particular PDMS chains; the preferred ones are described in particular in WO2004 / 052963.

Mention may be made of phenyl silicones functionalized with ureidopyrimidine units thus synthesized from aminopropylphenyltrimethicone, sold by Dow Corning, and on which ureidopyrimidone units were grafted via ureidopyrimidone functionalized with an isocyanate unit. 5 / fatty substances, especially oils and so-called 'supramolecular' waxes

Supramolecular oils are likely to be obtained by reaction between:

on the one hand at least one oil bearing at least one reactive, nucleophilic and / or electrophilic function, and

on the other hand, at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least 3 a reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (Γ) or (ΙΓ) as defined below.

Preferably, the supramolecular oils are capable of being obtained by reaction between:

on the one hand at least one oil carrying at least one nucleophilic reactive functional group chosen from OH and NH ₂ , and

on the other hand, at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least 3 an isocyanate or imidazole reactive functional group, said linking group comprising at least one unit of formula (Γ) or (ΙΓ) as defined below.

Finally, the supramolecular oils therefore comprise at least part (HB) originating from the oil and at least part (G) originating from the joining group, said part (G) comprising at least one unit of formula (Γ) or (ΙΓ).

In particular, said parts (HB) and (G) are connected by a covalent bond, in particular can be connected by a covalent bond formed during the reaction between the OH and / or NH ₂ reactive functional groups carried by the oil and the isocyanate functions. carried by the joining group; or between the reactive functions NH ₂ carried by the oil and the isocyanate or imidazole functional groups carried by the linking group.

The oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular oils, which can preferably be schematized (HB) - (OH) _m (NH ₂ ) _n , is a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances, not crystalline at 25 ° C. C, liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C, 1 atm.); preferably apolar, or preferably preferably not soluble in water.

By liquid is meant that the viscosity of the compound is less than or equal to 2500 centipoise, at 110 ° C., 1 atm., measured with a Brookfield DV-I or Brookfield Cap 1000+ rheometer, those skilled in the art choosing the apparatus suitable for measuring viscosity.

By apolar is meant a compound whose HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value is low; in particular less than or equal to 8, preferably less than or equal to 4, and more preferably less than or equal to 2.

By non-soluble it is meant that the fraction of oil which can dissolve in water, at 25 ° C., 1 atm., Is less than 5% by weight (ie 5 g of oil in 100 ml of water ); preferably less than 3%.

By fatty substance is meant in particular but not exclusively, a hydrocarbon compound comprising one or more alkyl chains, linear, cyclic, branched, saturated or unsaturated, having at least 6 carbon atoms and may comprise polar groups such as an acid group, a hydroxyl or polyol, amine, amide, phosphoric acid, phosphate, ester, ether, urea, carbamate, thiol, thioether, thioester, this chain may contain up to 100 carbon atoms. Preferably, the oil which can be used to prepare the supramolecular oil according to the invention is a non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and especially having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). .

Preferably, the oil has a molar mass (Mw) of between 150 and 6000, especially between 170 and 4000, or even between 180 and 2000, preferably between 200 and 1500, and more preferably between 220 and 800 g / mol. The oil that may be used in the context of the present invention carries at least one reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried on the linking group, in particular capable of reacting chemically with the isocyanate or imidazole groups carried by the group. junction; preferably, this function is an OH or NH _{2 function} . Preferably, the oil comprises only OH functions, in particular 1 to 3 OH functions, preferably primary or secondary OH functions, and still better only primary.

The oil that can be used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from:

(i) fatty alcohols, comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 1 or more OH; optionally comprising one or more NH ₂ .

We can in particular quote:

linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohols, and especially isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, alcohol; oleyl alcohol, isopalmitoyl alcohol, butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-octyl decanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-octyltetradecanol, 2-decyltetradecanol, 2-dodecyl hexadecanol, and in particular the alcohols sold under the name Jarcol by Jarchem Industries, such as Jarcol 1-12, Jarcol 1-16, Jarcol I-20 and Jarcol I-24;

linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 40, in particular C 8 -C 38, saturated or unsaturated diols, and in particular branched C 32-36 diols, and in particular the commercial product Pripol 2033 from Uniqema;

linear or branched C 6 -C 50, especially C 6 -C 32, in particular C 8 -C 28, triols which are saturated or unsaturated, and especially phytantriol;

(ii) esters and ethers bearing at least one free OH group, and in particular esters and partial polyol ethers, and hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters. By partial polyol ester is meant the esters prepared by esterification of a polyol with a carboxylic acid, substituted or unsubstituted, the reaction not being total, that is to say not carried out on all the free OH of the polyol; in the end, the ester therefore still has at least one free OH.

Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a monoacid. It is also possible to use a mixture of carboxylic acids, in particular monocarboxylic acids.

Partial polyol ether is understood to mean the ethers prepared by etherification of a polyol, on itself or with at least one other alcohol, mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monoalcohol, the etherification reaction not being complete, c that is, not performed on all the free OHs of the polyol; in the end, the ether still has at least one free OH.

By hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is meant the esters (mono and poly) prepared by reaction between a carboxylic acid carrying at least one OH function, and one or more alcohols (mono or poly), preferably monoalcohol, the reaction being total or partial (made on all or part of the free OH of the alcohol).

Among the polyols which may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of propylene glycol, glycerol, neopentyl glycol, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolethane, polyglycerols and especially polyglycerol-2, polyglycerol-3. and polyglycerol-10; erythritol, dipentaerythritol, pentaerythritol, di-trimethylolpropane, phytantriol, sucrose, glucose, methylglucose, sorbitol, fructose, xylose, mannitol, glucosamine; as well as diol dimers in particular obtained from dimeric fatty acids, especially C32-C38 branched diols, especially C36, aliphatic and / or alycyclic diols, such as those defined in the Hofer et al. European Coating Journal (March 2000), pages 26-37; and their mixtures.

Among the monoalcohols that may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of linear or branched, preferably branched, C 3 -C 50 alcohols, and in particular 2-ethylhexanol, octanol, alcohol and the like. isostearyl, and mixtures thereof.

Among the carboxylic acids which may be used to prepare the above esters or ethers, mention may be made of monoacids having 6 to 50 carbon atoms and diacids having 3 to 12 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, among which may be mentioned octyldodecyl acid, hexyldecyl acid, ethylhexyl acid, isostearic acid, nonanoic acid, iso-nonanoic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid; palmitic acid, oleic acid, oxalic acid, adipic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, capric acid, hexanedioic acid, decyl acid, decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Among the hydroxylated carboxylic acids that may be used to prepare the esters or ethers above, mention may be made of monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated acids; having 4 to 28 carbon atoms for example, and in particular 12-hydroxystearic acid, ricinoleic acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid; and their mixtures.

Thus, the oil that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

the partial esters of pentaerythritol, and in particular pentaerythrityl adipate, pentaerythrityl caprate, pentaerythrityl succinate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononate, pentaerythrityl triisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl triisostearate, tetradecyl- 2 pentaerythrityl tetradecanate, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctyl dodecanoate.

dipentaerythritol diesters, triesters, tetraesters or pentaesters, and in particular dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, dipentaerythrityl tri (polyhydroxystearate);

trimethylolpropane mono- and di-esters such as trimethylolpropane monoisostearate, trimethylolpropane di-isostearate, trimethylolpropane monoethylhexylate, trimethylolpropane diethyl-2-hexylate;

di-trimethylolpropane mono-, di- and tri-esters such as di-trimethylolpropane di-isostearate, di-trimethylolpropane triisostearate, di-trimethylolpropane tri-ethyl hexanoate;

the mono-esters or partial polyesters of glycerol or of polyglycerols, and in particular:

the glycerol di-isostearate, the glycerol di-isononanoate,

mono-, di- and tri-esters of polyglycerol-2; for example with isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and in particular polyglyceryl-2-isostearate; polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-2-nonanoate;

mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-esters of polyglycerol-3; for example with either isostearic acid, 2-ethyl hexyl acid and / or isononanoic acid; and especially polyglyceryl-3-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate; polyglyceryl-3 triisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonaisostearate; polyglyceryl-3-nonanoate;

partial esters of polyglycerol-10 and in particular polyglyceryl-10 nonaisosetrate; polyglyceryl-10-nonanoate; polyglyceryl-10-isostearate, polyglycol ryl-10-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 triisostearate;

propylene glycol monoesters such as propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol neopentanoate, propylene glycol monooctanoate;

monoesters of dimers-diols such as isostearyl dimer dilinoleate and octyl dodecyl dimer dilinoleate

glycerol ethers, such as polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-ketyl ether, polyglyceryl-3-decyltetradecyl ether and polyglyceryl-2-stearyl ether;

esters between hydroxylated mono-, di- or tri-carboxylic acid and monoalcohols, and in particular:

esters, in particular monoesters, of 12-hydroxystearic acid; such as octyl hydroxystearate and octyl-2-dodecyl hydroxystearate; mention may also be made of the corresponding oligomeric polyhydroxystearates, in particular having a degree of polymerization of 1 to 10, having at least one residual OH;

lactic acid esters, and especially C4-40 alkyl lactates, such as 2-ethylhexyl lactate, diisostearyl lactate, isostearyl lactate, isononyl lactate, lactate 2-octyldodecyl;

malic acid esters, and in particular C4-40 alkyl malates, such as 2-diethyl hexyl malate, diisostearyl malate, 2-dioctyl dodecyl malate;

esters of citric acid, and in particular C4-40 alkyl citrates, such as triisostearyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate and triisoarachidyl citrate. (iii) natural, natural modified, vegetable, hydroxylated oils and in particular:

triglycerine esters carrying one or more OH,

- castor oil, hydrogenated or not, and its derivatives including transesterification of castor oil; like the Polycin M-365 or Polycin 2525 products sold by Vertellus;

modified epoxidized oils, the modification consisting of opening the epoxy function to obtain a diol, and especially hydroxylated modified soybean oil; hydroxylated soybean oils (directly hydroxylated or first epoxidized); and in particular Agrol 2.0, Agrol 3.0 or Agrol 7.0 oils marketed by Bio-Based Technologies, LLC; Soyol oil R2-052 from Urethane Soy System; Renuva oils marketed by Dow Chemical; BioH Polyol 210 and 500 oils marketed by Cargill.

In particular, the following brilliant oils can be employed, for which the refractive index at 25 ° C is indicated in parentheses: polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate (1, 472), phytantriol (1, 467), oil castor oil (1,475), octyl-2-dodecanol (1,46), oleyl alcohol (1,461), octyl hydroxystearate (1,46), polyglyceryl-2-isostearate ( 1, 468), polyglyceryl-2-diisostearate (1, 464), malate diisostearyl (1, 462), butyl-2-octanol, 2-hexyl-decanol (1, 45), decyl-2-tetrystecanol (1, 457), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oils which may be employed in the present invention are chosen from octyl-2-dodecanol, diisostearyl malate, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-decyltetradecanol. ; castor oil, hydrogenated or not, as well as its derivatives; hydroxylated modified soybean oil, and mixtures thereof.

The joining group that can be used to form the supramolecular oil according to the invention has at least one reactive group, in particular isocyanate or imidazole, capable of reacting with the reactive functional groups, in particular OH and / or NH ₂ (NH). ₂ only for the imidazole), oil, to form a covalent bond, especially urethane type, between said oil and said joining group. Said linking group is capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joint joining groups, of identical or different chemical nature, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably minus 4 H bonds, preferably 4 H bonds. Said linking group, bearing isocyanate groups, can therefore be schematized (G) - (NCO) _p , p being a non-zero integer, preferably equal to 1 or 2.

The linking group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (Γ) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (ΙΓ), as defined below:

(Γ) (II ')

in which :

R 1 and R 3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C ₁ -C 32 alkyl group, (ii) a C ₄ -C ₆ cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C 5 aryl group. ₄ -C16; optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups;

R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C 1 -C 32 hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S; , F, Si and P.

In a particularly preferred manner, in formula (Γ), one can have -isophorone-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the formula

- (CH ₂ ) 6-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the formula unit

- (CH ₂ ) 6-, R 2 = isopropyl, which leads to the formula unit

R1 = 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene and R2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula:

Particularly preferably, in the formula (ΙΓ), R 1 represents the radical - isophorone-, R 2 = methyl and R 3 = - (CH ₂ ) ₂ OCO-NH-isophorone-, which leads to the divalent unit of formula:

Junction groups carrying a single isocyanate function may be of formula:

wherein R1 and R2 are as defined above; and especially :

R 1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH 3) -CH ₂ -C (CH 3) 2 -CH 2 -CH 2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3- phenylene; and or

R 2 represents H, CH ₃ , ethyl, C 13 H 27, C 7 H 15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl or -CH (C ₂ H ₅ ) (C ₄ H ₉ ).

Preferably, the joining groups can be chosen from the following groups:

The joining groups carrying two isocyanate functional groups can be of formula:

wherein R1, R2 and R3 are as defined above, and in particular:

R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH 3) -CH ₂ -C (CH ₃ ) 2 -CH ₂ -CH ₂ , 4,4'- methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and or

- R2 represents H, CH _3, ethyl, C13H27, C 7 H 15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C 2 H ₅₎ (C ₄ H _9); and or

- R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-OC (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched alkyl group; C1-C30 cycloalkyl or C ₄ -Ci2 aryl or C ₄ -C _2; or their mixtures; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1, 2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

A particularly preferred joining group is that of formula:

Among the junction groups carrying an imidazole group, there may be mentioned the following compound:

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the linking groups can be attached to the oil via the functionalization of the linking group with an isocyanate or imidazole.

According to another embodiment, it is possible to make the reverse reaction by prefunctionalizing the oil with a diisocyanate.

The supramolecular oils according to the invention can in particular respond to the following structures:

functional octyldodecanol ureidopyrimidone of structure:

Or of structure:

functionalized diisostearyl malate ureidopyrimidone of structure:

isostearyl

Or of structure: isostearyl

isostearyl

functionalized castor oil ureidopyrimidone of structure:

Or of structure

Similarly, the supramolecular waxes can be obtained by reaction between: at least one wax carrying at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH, or even anhydride, and

at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 4 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one so-called reactive function complementary, capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the wax, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (Γ) or (ΙΓ) as defined above. The wax that can be used to prepare the supramolecular wax according to the invention is a lipophilic fatty substance or a lipophilic fat mixture, crystalline at 25 ° C., solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C., 1 ° C.). ATM.); preferably with reversible solid / liquid state change, and generally having a melting temperature above 40 ° C, more preferably above 55 ° C, and more preferably above 75 ° C, and up to 200 ° C. ° C, especially up to 120 ° C. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture. The wax that may be used in the context of the present invention thus has at least one reactive functional group capable of reacting with the complementary reactive function carried by the linking group, in particular capable of reacting chemically with the isocyanate groups borne by the group of junction; preferably, this function is an OH, COOH or even anhydride function. Preferably, the wax carries only OH functions, preferably primary or secondary OH functions, and even more preferably only primary.

The waxes that may be used in the context of the present invention may be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

They can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the following waxes, it being understood that these waxes carry a reactive function, in particular OH, COOH, or even anhydride:

(I) long-chain alcohols, generally linear, of formula CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) n -OH with n between 13 and 60, in particular between 15 and 47, or even between 15 and 31. Such fatty alcohols are commercially available, for example from New Phase Technologies or Petrolite. It may be mixtures of long-chain linear alcohols that can be obtained by a polymerization process making it possible to obtain polymers with a very low polydispersity index (Mw / Mn of less than 1.1). Their weight average molecular weight (Mw) is generally between 350 and 1000. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and octacosanol may especially be mentioned.

(ii) long chain, saturated or unsaturated, generally linear, C8-C60 acids; there may be mentioned those of formula CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) n -COOH with n between 6 and 58, especially between 8 and 48, or even between 10 and 32; mention may also be made of mono- or poly-unsaturated C6-C60 or even C8-C32 fatty acids.

(iii) calcium lanolates or stearates.

(iv) lanolin and its derivatives, such as hydrogenated, hydroxylated or acetylated lanolin, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids and acylated lanolin alcohol;

(v) polyolefin waxes, especially homopolymers and copolymers of poly (alpha-olefins), preferably having a melting temperature above 25 ° C., preferably between 25 and 110 ° C., optionally polyoxyalkylenated ( C2-C3 alkyl), optionally (poly) glycerolated, and bearing at least one -OH, -COOH or carboxylic acid anhydride functional group, for example - (polyoxyalkylene) n-OH, or polyglycerol.

Among these polyolefins, there may be mentioned homopolymers and copolymers of olefins C2-C30, preferably C2-C10, or even C2-C3. Particularly preferred homopolymers of polyethylene and polypropylene, and copolymers thereof with each other or with another C 4 -C 10 alpha-olefin. These polyolefins, preferably oligomers of Mw less than 10,000, can be obtained by the known polymerization techniques: by radical polymerization, Ziegler-Natta, or by using metallocene initiators.

We can mention in particular:

polyethylene or polypropylene waxes, terminated by an OH end group, such as "PERFORMACOL" sold by New Phase Technologies, in particular PERFORMACOL 350 (Tm 79 ° C), 425 (Tm 91 ° C) and 550 ( Mp 99 ° C);

polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylene polyethylene or polypropylene waxes terminated with a (POE) -OH, - (PPO) -OH end group or -

(POE) / (PPO) -OH, such as the ethoxylated polyethylenes "PERFORMATOX Ethoxylates" sold by New Phase Technologies, in particular PERFORMATOX Ethoxylate 420 (Tf 91 ° C), 450 (Tf 91 ° C), 480 (Tf 88 ° C), 490 (mp 71 ° C), 520 (mp 99 ° C) and 550 (mp 99 ° C);

polyolefins, preferably polyethylene or polypropylene, glycerolated or polyglycerolated (bearing groups - [O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ ] x -OH) with x preferably between 1 and 50;

polyolefins, preferably polyethylene or polypropylene, bearing a COOH group, or carboxylic acid anhydride; in particular

polyethylenes or polypropylenes bearing a terminal COOH group, such as "PERFORMACID Acid" sold by New Phase Technologies, in particular PERFORMACID Acid 350 (Tm 89 ° C.), 425 (mp 93 ° C.), 550 (mp 101 °). C) and 700 (mp 110 ° C);

polyolefins, in particular homo- or copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene, bearing one or more succinic anhydride groups along their chain and resulting from the addition of maleic anhydride to one or more residual unsaturation, or direct copolymerization olefin-maleic anhydride, such as: (i) polypropylenes with maleic anhydride groups (or succinic once attached to the chain), especially Clariant's "LICOCARE PP207", (ii) polyethylenes having maleic anhydride groups, especially Honeywell's "Ethylene-Maleic Anhydride Copolymer" such as AC 573 A (Drop point: 106 ° C. ), AC 596 A (Drop point: 143 ° C); (iii) poly (isobutylene-maleic anhydride) copolymers, especially those sold by Kuraray under the trade name ISOBAM; (iv) maleic anhydride / octadecene copolymers such as those marketed by Chevron Philips Company under the name "PA 18"; (v) copolymers between long chain olefins and maleic anhydride, such as LICOCARE CM 401 LP 3345 from Clariant.

(vi) natural waxes which have a significant fraction of free fatty alcohols and / or free fatty acids; among those comprising free fatty alcohols, mention may be made of Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, sugar cane wax; among those comprising free fatty acids, there may be mentioned beeswax, orange wax, Montan wax, lemon wax, sugar cane wax.

(vii) so-called natural polyoxyethylenated (bearing a terminal OH) or poly-glycerolated (several lateral OH and a terminal OH) waxes; they are natural or synthetic waxes, which may have one or more residual COOHs which are reacted with an alcohol, alcohol, polyol, or ethoxylated alcohol, a C2-C4 alkylene glycol (preferably glycerol) or polyglycerol; we can in particular quote:

polyoxyethylenated natural waxes (number of EO preferably between 2 and 100): PEG Beewax (APIFIL from Gattefosse or PEG-8 Bee Wax from Kosher Keunen), PEG Candellila Wax; PEG Carnauba Wax such as PEG-12 Carnauba from Koster Keunen; PEG Lanolin; oxypropylenated lanolin wax; PEG Spermaceti Wax; PEG Shellac Wax.

glycerolated or polyglycerolated waxes: polyglycerolated beeswax, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax (Cera Bellina Wax from Koster Keunen); Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba blend / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (Hydracire S from Gattefosse).

(viii) silicone waxes, such as, for example, polyether silicone waxes, and alkyl or alkoxydimethic acid having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms;

(ix) polyoxyalkylenated C 12 -C 40 fatty alcohols, especially bearing at least one C 12 -C 40 alkyl group, in particular C 14 -C 32 alkyl, and a polyoxyalkylene group, preferably polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, and terminated with an OH; in particular polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol, and more particularly steareth-10 or polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (10 EO), Steareth-2 or polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 EO) and Steareth-20 or stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated (20 EO), and in particular the BRU S10-SO, the BRU S2-SO and the BRU S20-SO of Croda; mixtures of oxyethylenated lanolin fatty alcohols such as Lubrizol SOLULAN 16 Lanolin; TEGOCARE 150 from Evonik, EMULCIRE 61 WL2659 from Gattefosse; lsosteareth-20 or polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) isostearyl alcohol such as Witco AROSURF 66E20; PEG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, especially NIKKOPOL PEN-4630 from Nikko; PEG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12, in particular NIKKOL PEN-4612 from Nikko; PEG-4 Montanate, including LICOWAX KST of Clariant; hydrogenated and polyoxyethylenated castor oils such as PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and in particular CREMOPHOR PH from BASF; the PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer and in particular the Akzo ELFACOS ST9;

(x) the mono- or multi-esters between at least one polyol, including glycerol and a C8-C40 fatty mono-acid, bearing at least one free OH; and mono- or multi-ethers between a polyol and a C8-C40 fatty monoalcohol. Mention may in particular be made, as fatty acid: stearic acid, behenic acid; as polyol bearing at least one residual OH: pentaerythritol, erythritol, di-pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, di-thmethylol propane, glycerol, di-glycerol, polyglycerols, sugar. Mention may especially be made of batyl alcohol or mono-stearyl ether of glycerol, and in particular BATYL ALCOOL 100 from Nikko; Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (= vegetable fatty acid esters, isostearic acid, adipic acid and glycerol) such as SOFTISAN 649 from Sasol; Montanate Glycol or Octacosanate, such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES from Clariant; Pentaerythrityl Distearate such as CUTINA PES from Cognis; esters of sucrose and of fatty acid with residual OH, and in particular sucrose esterified with 6-8 behenic acid chains, comprising at least 2 free OHs, such as CROMADERM B from Croda; pentaerythrityl Isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate with residual OH, such as Croda's SUPERMOL L-LQ (RB), Palmitate sucrose such as Mitsubishi's SURFHOPE SE COSME C-1615; sucrose Tribehenate such as Mitsubishi's SURFHOPE SE COSME C-2203.

Mono or multi-esters may also preferably be used between at least one glycerol, mono- or polyglycerolated, and a C8-C40 fatty monoacid, especially C12-C32, bearing at least one free OH; mention may be made in particular of polyglyceryl-10 Behenate / Eicosadioate such as NOMCORT HK-P from Nisshin Oil; Behenate / Eicosadioate glyceryl such as NOMCORT HK-G from Nisshin Oil; Polyglyceryl-10 Hydroxystearate / stearate / Eicosadioate such as NIKKOL NIKKOWAX LM from Nikko Chemicals; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate (free 5 OH) such as Taiyo Kagaku SUNSOFT Q-185S; Glyceryl Stearate such as Taiyo Kagaku SUNSOFT 8000V; Glyceryl Laurate such as SUNSOFT 750 from Taiyo Kagaku; Glyceryl Behenate (mono + di-behenate) such as DUB BG from Stearinerie Dubois.

(xi) the mono- or multi-esters between at least one C8-C40 polycarboxylic acid and a C8-C40 monoalcohol.

(xii) C8-C40 fatty acid esters of C8-C40 fatty alcohol, bearing in addition to at least one OH group; and especially :

esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, with a C 8 -C 40 monohydric alcohol, diol or polyol; in particular trihydroxystearin or glycerol trihydroxystearate, such as Elementis THIXIN®; Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate such as WICKENOL 171 from Alzo; dipentaerythrityl H exa hydroxystearate such as SALACOS 168M from Nisshin Oil; Hydroxystearoyl Stearate of C18-C38 fatty alcohols such as KESTERWAX K82P from Koster Keunen; Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydoxystearate such as Akzo ELFACOS C26 (which carries 2 free OH in the end).

esters of hydrogenated ricinoleic acid with a C 8 -C 40 monohydric alcohol, diol or polyol; especially cetyl esters of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acids such as Sophil PHYTOWAX RICIN 16L 64;

the esters or polyesters between the hydrogenated castor oil (3 OH) and a C8-C40 mono- or di-acid, retaining at least one of the three OHs of the hydrogenated castor oil molecule, and in particular the polycondensate between hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic and adipic acids such as HAIMALATE 618 from Kokyu Al-cool;

esters of citric acid and C8-C40 fatty alcohols, comprising at least one OH of the free acid; especially tri-C14-C15 alkyl citrate such as COSMACOL ECL Sassol.

We can obviously use a mixture of waxes.

Preferably, the waxes that may be used in the present invention are chosen from cetyl alcohol, beeswax, carnauba wax and jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof.

6 / UV filters

The assets can also be UV filters and respond to one of the following formulas (Ib) or (Mb):

in which :

n = 1, 2 or 3; preferably n = 1

- m = 0 or 1;

- w = 0 or 1; the value of w is conditioned by the nature of the groups A ₁ and A ₂ as explicitly mentioned in the definition of said groups;

with the proviso that when w = 0, then the radical Ai and the diradical A ₂ can not be terminated by nitrogen; - q = 0 or 1; the value of q is conditioned by the nature of the groups A ₁ and A ₂ as explicitly mentioned in the definition of said groups;

R 1 and R ₂ , which are identical or different within the same formula, represent hydrogen, -OH, -NRR '; or a linear or branched and / or cyclic, in particular saturated or unsaturated, optionally saturated, C1-C18, carbon-containing group which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N; Ri can also be a radical -ΖΊ-Αι; Z represents a multivalent radical (divalent to tetravalent, according to the value of n) chosen from:

(i) a carbon radical, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, with C 1 -C 32; optionally interrupted or substituted, one or more times, with an optionally aromatic C3-C12 (hetero) ring; or

(ii) an optionally aromatic C3-C12 hydrocarbon radical (hetero) cyclic radical; optionally substituted by one or more carbon radicals, in particular hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in

(iii) a (C ₅ -C 6) -cycloalkyl-C ₁ -C ₁₂ -alkyl radical, said Z radical possibly being:

(1) substituted with 1 to 12 groups, identical or not, chosen from -OH, -SO 3 R, -OSO 3 R, -SO 3 H, -OSO 3 H, -COOH, -COOR, -CONRR ', alkyl dC ₄ , and - NTRR'R "An ^"

and or

(2) interrupted or terminated with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, chosen from the divalent groups: -S-, -NH- (or = NH), -O-, -C (O) -, -SO2-, or combinations thereof, for example -NHC (O) -, -C (O) NH-, -OC (O) -, -C (O) O-, or

with R _a = H or halogen, especially Cl, or C1-C6 alkyl; and R, R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, being H or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, it being understood that said radical Z comprises at least one heteroatom chosen from N, O and S; the electroneutrality of the compounds of formula (Ib) is interrupted or substituted by a cationic group by an anion or a mixture of An anions ^" cosmetically acceptable;

- Z may further designate a covalent bond for the compounds of formula (Ib) when n = 1 and q = 0, ΖΊ can not designate a covalent bond; - Zi and ΖΊ, identical or different, denote a divalent radical Z; ΖΊ not able to designate a covalent bond

Z ₂ is a linear or branched divalent C ₁ -C 32 alkyl radical; monoradical Ai corresponding to one of the following formulas (IIIa) to (XIIa): a) para-aminobenzoate

b) cinnamate, benzalmalonate or cyanoacrylate

x = 0 or 1

Being heard that :

- q = w = x = 1 when Z is not a covalent bond, and

- q = x = 0 when Z is a covalent bond c) benzophenone

d) benzylidene camphor:

Ak = linear divalent alkyl radical saturated C1-C6, preferably C2.

f) s-thazi w = 0;

with the radicals A ₃ , identical or different, representing the radicals Ai formula (Nia), (IVa), (Va), (Via) or (IXa);

the diradicals A ₂ corresponding to one of the following formulas (IIIb) to (VIIIb):

a / para-amino benzoate:

with X = O or NH

b / cinnamate; benzalmalonate or cvano acrylate

with X = O or NH

c / benzophenone:

d / benzylidene camphor:

e / s-triazine:

w = 0;

with A4, representing a radical of formula (Nia), (IVa), (Va), (Via) or (IXa); in which :

R ¹ represents a linear or branched C ¹ -C 30 alkyl or C 3 -C 30 alkenyl radical which may carry one or more hydroxyl substituents and which may contain in the carbon chain an alkyl ring, one or more heteroatoms chosen from among the atoms; oxygen, nitrogen and silicon, an optionally substituted C 6 -C 20 aryl radical;

- R ² and R ' ² independently represent a linear or branched C1-C10 alkoxy radical, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl radical, a C ₂ alkenyl radical;

Cs, linear or branched or -OSi (CH ₃ ) 3, two adjacent radicals R ^{2 which} can together form an alkylidene dioxy group in which the alkylidene group contains 1 to 2 carbon atoms (i.e., a group -O- (CH ₂ ) tO- with t = 1 or 2),

p and p 'are independently 0, 1 or 2,

- R ³ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, or a radical chosen from - (C = O) XR ¹ , -CN, - (C = O) R ¹ , -SO ₂ R ⁴ with R ¹ having the same definition as above and

R ⁴ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical or an optionally substituted C ₆ -C ₂₀ aryl radical;

R ⁵ represents a divalent C ₂ -C 8 alkyl radical,

X represents oxygen or a radical -NR ⁶ with R ⁶ being a linear or branched alkyl radical in d-Cs.

Compounds of formulas (Ib) or (IIb) in which:

- n = 1; and or

- m = 0 or 1; and or

- Ri = H or -ΖΊ-Α ₁ ; and or

- R ₂ is a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl radical; and or

the radical Z (or Z ₁ and / or ΖΊ) denotes a divalent linear C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, the divalent C ₃ -C ₈ cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted with one or more identical or different identical C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals; Linear or branched C4 or the following divalent radicals:

Z may further designate a covalent bond when n = 1 and q = 0; and / or - Z ₂ denotes a linear divalent C ₂ -C ₂ 0 alkyl radical

and in the radicals A ₁ and / or A ₂ ,

R ¹ is C ¹ -C 6 alkyl, optionally substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups,

- X is -O-,

- p = p '= 0,

- R ³ is -CN or -COOR ¹

- R ⁵ is -CH2CH2-

Even more preferably, the compounds correspond to formulas (Ib) and (llb) in which: - n = 1;

- m = 0 or 1;

Ri is H or -Z'i-Ai;

R2 is the linear or branched C1-C3 alkyl radical;

the radical Z (or Z1 and / or ΖΊ) denotes a divalent C1-12 linear alkyl radical, preferably a 1,2-ethylene radical; 1,6-hexylene; 1,4-butylene, or a divalent radical:

Z may further designate a covalent bond when n = 1 and q = 0;

Z ₂ denotes a C2-C20 divalent linear alkyl radical, in particular a tetradecyl radical;

R ¹ is C ¹ -C 6 alkyl, optionally substituted with 1 or 2 hydroxyl groups,

- X is -O-,

- p = p '= 0,

- R ³ is -CN or -COOR ¹

- R ⁵ is -CH2CH2-

Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the compounds of formula (Ib) or (Mb) is less than 2000 g / mol.

Particularly preferred compounds include:

1 / para-aminobenzoate derivatives

those of formula (Ib) for which Ai corresponds to the formula (Nia)

those of formula (IIb) for which A ₂ corresponds to formula (IIIb)

21 cinnamate derivatives:

those of formula (Ib) for which Ai corresponds to formula (IVa)

3 / benzalmalonate derivatives of formula (Ib) for which Ai responds to the formula

those of formula (Mb) for which A ₂ corresponds to formula (IVb)

5 / benzophenone derivatives of formula (Ib) in which A 1 corresponds to formula (Va)

6 / benzylidene camphor derivatives:

those of formula (Ib) for which Ai corresponds to the formula (Via)

those of formula (Ib) for which Ai corresponds to the formula (VIIa)

those of formula (IIb) for which A ₂ corresponds to formula (VIb):

(19) It derived from benzotriazole

8 / s-thazine derivatives:

those of formula (Ib) for which Ai corresponds to formula (Xlla)

105

The compounds of formula (Ib) can be obtained by reaction between a reactive function Y linked to the group ΑΊ with a reactive function W attached to Z of the derivative of formula (XIII), the two reactive functions being of course capable of reacting with each other, as described in the following diagram.

The compounds of formula (Mb) can be obtained by reaction between a reactive function Y linked to the group A ' ₂ with a reactive function W attached to Zi of the derivative of formula (XIII), the two reactive functions being of course capable of reacting.

)

ΑΊ and A ' ₂ are such that after reaction between the reactive groups W and Y, the compounds (Ib) or (Mb) respectively containing the radicals A1 and A2 are obtained. The reactive functions W and Y may preferably be chosen from the functions:

isocyanate -N = C = O;

isothiocyanate -N = C = S;

carboxylic acid or ester -COOR _α or COORb activated ester with R _a being H or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and better still a methyl or ethyl radical; and ORb being selected from phenoxy, 4-nitrophenoxy, 2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy and the following radicals:

acyl halide,

acyl imidazole or acyl benzotriazole of formula:

- acid anhydride,

activated carbamic acid -NHCOX with X = Cl, imidazole or ORb with ORb as defined above;

hydroxyl (OH) or activated hydroxyl, for example in O-tosylate form,

primary or secondary amine -NHR _a , where R _a is as defined above;

Preferably, the reactive functions W and Y precursor of the bond between Z or Zi and Ai or A ₂ (or ΑΊ and A ' ₂ ) are chosen from isocyanate, amine or hydroxyl functions;

A particular method of obtaining the derivative of formula (XIII) or (XI I Γ) is that described in the article by Katritzky et al., Comprehensive Organic Functional Group Transformations, Pergamon: Oxford, 1995, vol 6, pp.500. -506 or in Arkiv der Pharmazie, 314 (1), 34-41, 1981.

To obtain the compound (XIII), it is possible, in particular, to react

an isocytosine B with an activated carbamic acid:

B

an isocytosine B with an isocyanate derived from amine:

B an activated C-activated isocytosine C with an amine:

a β-ketoester D (with R 1 being H) with a guanylalkylurea derivative E:

We proceed in the same way to obtain the compounds (XI I Γ).

Another process for the preparation of the derivatives of formulas (Ib) or (Mb) for the compounds and R ₂ = methyl):

then reacting it on the (respectively) function (s) Y = alcohol or amine of the compound Υ-ΑΊ (respectively of the compound Y-A'2- [Z ₂ -A ' ₂ ] mY) ■

Another process for preparing the derivatives of formulas (Ib) or (Mb) consists in synthesizing the following compound (with R 1 = H and R ₂ = methyl):

and then reacting it on the (respectively) function (s) Y = activated carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid of the compound Υ-ΑΊ (respectively of the compound Y-A ' ₂ - [Z ₂ -A' ₂ ] _m -Y) . It hyaluronic acid

The cosmetic active may also be a hyaluronic acid derivative, and include both (la) and (Ib) units:

wherein :

- R1 represents OH or a radical -NH-R'-Z,

R2 represents H or a radical -C (O) -NH-R'-Z,

with:

- R 'is a divalent alkyl radical, linear or branched C1-C18, in particular C2-C14, or C4-C10; or a single link;

Z is a radical of formula (I):

it being understood that at least one, preferably only one, of the radicals R 1 and R 2 comprises a radical Z.

Preferably, the ratio between the units (Ia) and the units (Ib) is such that the degree of functionalization of the derivative is between 1 and 99%, better still between 1.5 and 60% and preferably between 2 and 30%.

Preferably, the derivatives according to the invention advantageously have a mean molecular weight (Mw) of between 5,000 and 3,000,000 daltons, better still between 50,000 and 2,500,000 daltons, and even between 500,000 and 2,000,000 daltons.

The hyaluronic acid derivatives may also be in the form of salts, in particular sodium salt, ammonium salt or potassium salt.

8 / capsules

The capsules according to the invention can be obtained by reaction between:

on the one hand at least one previously formed capsule bearing at least one reactive function, especially at the surface, said reactive function being able to be nucleophilic or electrophilic, and

- on the other hand, at least one splice group capable of establishing hydro- gene with one or more partner joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said linking group carrying at least one reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by said capsule, said group junction comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II) as defined below.

The previously formed capsule is preferably obtained by covalent, organic and / or inorganic polymerization. It can be obtained in particular by radical polymerization and / or by polycondensation.

Mention may in particular be made of polyurethane, polyurea and / or polyurethane / polyurea capsules, crosslinked and obtained in particular by interfacial polycondensation; such capsules are described in particular in application EP1837073.

The non-functionalized capsules may in particular be obtained by reacting at least two reagents, one of isocyanate type and the other of alcohol and / or amine type, at least one of these reagents bearing at least 3 identical or different functions. different, chosen for one of the isocyanate functions, and for the other of the hydroxyl and amine functions. This reagent ensures in particular the function of crosslinking agent.

According to a first variant embodiment, the capsule can be obtained by reacting an alcohol-type and / or amine-type reagent comprising at least three identical or different functions, chosen from hydroxyl and amine functional groups, with an isocyanate type reactant comprising a alone, or even preferably two, isocyanate function (s).

According to another alternative embodiment, the capsule can be obtained by reacting a tri- or polyisocyanate with an alcohol-type and / or amine-type reagent comprising only one, or even preferably two, identical or different function (s). where appropriate, selected from hydroxyl and amine functions.

Isocyanate-type reagents

The isocyanate-type reagents that can be used to form the capsules according to the invention may comprise one or more, and especially two or even three isocyanate functional groups. They may for example be chosen from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, araliphatic, aromatic and heterocyclic di- or poly-isocyanates such as those described, for example, by W. SIEFKEN in Justus Liebigs Annalen der Chemie, 562, pages 75 to 136.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the isocyanate type reactants may be chosen from diisocyanates, and in particular ethylene diisocyanate, 1,4-tetramethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,2 4- or 2,4,4-trimethyl-1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-dodecane diisocyanate, cyclobutane 1,3-diisocyanate, 1,3-cyclohexane and 1,4-diisocyanate and any mixture of its isomers, 4,4'-methylenebis (cyclohexyl) diisocyanate 1 - isocyanato-3,3,5-trinneethyl-5-isocyanatonnethylcyclohexane, 2,4- and 2,6-hexane-hydrotolylene diisocyanate and any mixture of its isomers, hexahydro-1,3- and 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate perhydro-1,4'- and 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,3- and 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate and any mixture of isomers thereof, 4, 4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate (4,4'-MDI), 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, m-xylylene diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, m- and p-isocyanatophenylsulfonyl isocyanates, lysine alkyl ester diisocyanate where the alkyl is C 1 -C 10 or 2-butyl-2-ethylpentamethylene diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the isocyanate-type reagents can comprise at least three isocyanate functional groups and thus act as a crosslinking agent. They can then in particular be chosen from triisocyanates, for example triphenylmethane 4,4 ', 4 "-triisocyanate, or 4-isocyanatomethyl-1,8-octanemethylene diisocyanate or else from polyisocyanates, and in particular polyphenylpolymethylene polyisocyanates. perchlorinated aryl polyisocyanates, polyisocyanates having carbodiimide groups, polyisocyanates having allophanate groups, polyisocyanates having isocyanurate groups, polyisocyanates having acylated urea groups, polyisocyanates having bis-urea groups, polyisocyanates having isocyanates prepared by a telomerization reaction, the polyisocyanates having ether groups, the reaction products of the abovementioned isocyanates with acetals, the polyisocyanates containing polymeric fatty acid radicals and any mixture of the polyisocyanates mentioned therein. -above.

It is also possible to use, as the isocyanate type reactant, mixtures of said isocyanates, i.e. mixtures of aliphatic isocyanates, mixtures of aromatic isocyanates, mixtures of aliphatic isocyanates and aromatic compounds, and in particular mixtures which optionally comprise modified diphenylmethane diisocyanates.

By way of illustration of these mixtures, mention may notably be made of hexamethylene diisocyanate biurethique, mixed with 4,4'-diphenylmethane isocyanate, and optionally with 2,4-diphenylmethane isocyanate and trimerized hexamethylene diisocyanate, in admixture with 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, and optionally with 2,4-diphenylmethane diisocyanate.

It is also possible to use, as isocyanate-type reagent, oligo- or poly-isocyanates which may be prepared from the di- or polyisocyanates mentioned above or their mixtures by binding them by means of urethane structures, allophanate urea, bisurea, amide, isocyanurate, carbodiimide, uretonimine, oxadiazinetrione or iminooxadiazinedione.

Mention may also be made of di- or polyisocyanates such as mixtures of monomers diphenylmethane diisocyanates and oligomers diphenylmethane diisocyanates (also called MDI polymers), 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate (2,4-TDI), 2, 4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate (2,4'-MDI), triisocyanatotoluene, isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), 2-butyl-2-ethylpentamethylene diisocyanate, 2-isocyanatopropylcyclohexyl isocyanate, 3 (4) -isocyantomethyl-1-methylcyclohexyl isocyanate, 1,4-diisocyanato-4-methylpentane, 2,4'-methylenebis (cyclohexyl) diisocyanate and 4-methylcyclohexane 1,3-diisocyanate (H-TDI), which may more particularly be used as an isocyanate type reagent.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the isocyanate-type reagents that can be used to form the capsules according to the invention are chosen from di- or polyisocyanates and especially mixtures of monomers diphenylmethane diisocyanates and oligomers diphenylmethane diisocyanates ( MDI polymers), tolylene diisocyanate (TDI), and in particular 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate and 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate, and their mixture, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate (4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate); MDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).

The amount of isocyanate reagent to be used for carrying out the invention varies in the range customarily used in interfacial polyaddition processes.

Reagents of alcohol and / or amine type

The reagents of the alcohol and / or amine type that can be used to form the capsules according to the invention may comprise one or more, and especially two or even three identical or different functions chosen from hydroxyl and amine functions. They may for example be chosen from alcohol-type reagents, amine-type reagents and aminoalcohol-type reagents, used alone or as a mixture with one another. They preferably have a molecular weight ranging from 200 to 4000 g / mol.

The alcohol-type reagents may comprise one or more, and especially two or even three hydroxyl functions.

More particularly, these reagents may be a polyol. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least two hydroxyl groups -OH. The polyol may be, for example, a hydrocarbon compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated bearing at least two hydroxyl functions. The polyol may in particular be a (hydro) carbon compound preferably comprising from 2 to 300 carbon atoms, and bearing at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Preferably, it is a compound (hydro) carbon having 3 to 32 carbon atoms, and especially 4 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms. In particular, the polyol may be a compound having 2 to 18 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the alcohol-type reagents can be chosen from diols and in particular glycol derivatives, such as diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol and the like. hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, and pentylene glycol, or butane diol, propane-1,2 diol, pentanediols and in particular 1,2-pentanediol, dodecanediol, or mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the alcohol-type reagents may comprise at least three hydroxyl functions, and thus act as a crosslinking agent. They can then be chosen in particular from trimethylpropane, glycerol, pentaerythritol, 1,2,3-trihydroxyhexane, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, dulcitol and sorbitol, polymers and copolymers. glycerol, such as, for example, hexaglycerol and diglycerol, glycerol derivatives, for example butyldiglycol, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate and castor oil, glycol derivatives, for example polyethylene glycols and especially polyethylene glycols (PEG) having from 4 to 150 ethylene glycol units, such as PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-800 and PEG-1200, polypropylene glycols, copolymers of ethylene glycol and propylene glycol or sugars such as glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose, lactose, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred manner, the alcohol-type reagents that are useful for acting as crosslinking agents are chosen from trimethylpropane, glycerol, pentaerythritol and sugars.

The polyol may also be a polyether alcohol of average molecular weight ranging from 150 to 600, such as polyethylene glycol 300 and polyglycerin 500.

It is also possible to use any mixture of the polyols mentioned above.

The polyol may also be selected from non-etherified polyols and unesterified polyols.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alcohol-type reactants are chosen from diols such as, for example, diethylene glycol, polyols such as, for example, polyethylene glycols, and in particular those having from 4 to 150 ethylene glycol units, or even mixtures of polyethylene glycols and diethylene glycol.

The amine reagents may comprise one or more, and especially two or even three amine functions.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the amine-type reagents can be chosen from diamines, for example diaminoethane, diaminopropanes, diaminobutanes, diaminohexanes, piperazine, 2,5-dimethylpiperazine, and the like. , 3-aminomethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexane (isophorone diamine, IPDA), 4,4'-diaminodicyclohexylmethane, 1,4-diaminocyclohexane, aminoethylethanolamine, hydrazine or hydrate d hydrazine.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the amine-type reagents can comprise at least three amine functions and thus act as a crosslinking agent. They can then in particular be chosen from triamines, such as for example guanidine, diethylene triamine or 1,8-diamino-4-aminomethyloctane.

The amine reagents can also be used in the form of cetimines, ketazines or corresponding amine salts.

In a preferred embodiment, the amine reactants comprise at least one minus one amino group selected from primary and secondary amino groups of the NHR type, wherein R represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms. The aminoalcohol type reactants may comprise at least two different functions chosen from amine and hydroxyl functions.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the aminoalcohol type reactants may be difunctional, that is to say comprise two functions, namely an amine function and a hydroxyl function.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the aminoalcohol type reactants can comprise at least three functions, and thus act as a crosslinking agent. They may for example comprise a single hydroxyl function (amine respectively) and at least two amine functions (respectively hydroxyl), or two hydroxyl functions (respectively amine) and at least one amine function (respectively hydroxyl).

As the aminoalcohol type reagent that can be used in the present invention, mention may notably be made of ethanolamine and triethanolamine.

As specified above, the capsules according to the invention may, according to a first alternative, be obtained by reacting at least one diisocyanate with at least one reagent of alcohol and / or amine type carrying at least three functions, identical or different, chosen from the hydroxyl and amine functions, and acting as a crosslinking agent, optionally in the presence of at least one diol and / or at least one diamine and / or at least one difunctional amino alcohol.

Preferably, the isocyanate type reactant is a diisocyanate chosen from mixtures of diphenylmethane diisocyanate monomers and of diphenylmethane diisocyanate oligomers (MDI polymers), tolylene diisocyanate (TDI) and especially 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate and 2-diisocyanate. , 6-tolylene diisocyanate, and their mixture, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate (4,4'-MDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).

As reagent acting as crosslinking agent, it is possible, for example, to use the triols, polyols, triamines and polyamines described above. Preferably, the reagent acting as crosslinking agent is chosen from triols, for example trimethylolpropane, glycerol and pentaerythritol, and polyols, such as, for example, sugars such as glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose and lactose. Preferably, the diamines comprise at least one amino group selected from the primary amino groups and secondary amines of -NHR type, wherein R represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the capsules are obtained by interfacial polymerization. Interfacial polycondensation is a polymerization reaction that occurs at the interface of two immiscible liquids, at least one of which contains a suitable polyfunctional reagent. Preferably, at least one monomer and / or reagent is soluble in the first phase, and at least one monomer and / or reagent is soluble in the second phase, immiscible with said first phase

In the case where this reaction is carried out without removing secondary products, it is also called interfacial polymerization.

This reaction may in particular be carried out in an emulsion, in particular biphasic or multiphasic emulsion, at the interface between the immiscible phases. The reaction can be carried out in an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, or in a multiple emulsion of the E / H / E or H / E / H type. According to a preferred embodiment, the emulsion is of the oil-in-water type.

The capsules are crosslinked. This crosslinking can be obtained by reaction of the polymer chains with a reagent of functionality at least equal to 3, called crosslinking agent.

The capsules according to the invention, before functionalization, preferably have a size of between 0.5 and 1200 microns, in particular between 0.6 and 30 microns.

In a particular embodiment, the capsules may comprise an encapsulated active.

Said encapsulated active agent may especially be a dyestuff, in particular a pigment, that is to say a solid, white or colored particle, naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases usually used in cosmetics, or rendered insoluble by formulation under lacquer form for example. Said pigment is preferably at least partly organic or even totally organic. It can also be mineral.

The capsules preferably comprise 0.5 to 80% by weight, especially 1 to 70% by weight, especially 20 to 65% by weight, or even 30 to 60% by weight of pigment relative to the total weight of the capsule.

Mention may in particular be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C, FD & C type and their lacquers, and especially those known under the names D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6 , D & C Orange # 4, D & C Orange # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 1 1, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red # 17, D & C Red # 21, D & C Red # 22, D & C Red # 27, D & C Red # 31, D & C Red # 33, D & C Red # 34, D & C Red # 36, D & C Purple No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 6, FDC Blue 1, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, and D & C Yellow No. 11; as well as their lacquers, in particular lacquers based on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, or diketopyrrolopyrroles.

Mention may also be made, as a dyestuff, of inorganic pigments, optionally surface-treated and / or coated, and especially of titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder, gold powder and silver powder.

It is also possible to mention optical effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas. said substrate being coated or not with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide.

Mention may also be made among dyestuffs, nacres, that is to say iridescent pigments especially produced by some shellfish in their shell, or synthesized. The nacres can be chosen from mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, micatitane coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, micatitane coated with an organic pigment, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

It is also possible to use interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments; or pigments having a silica microsphere-type structure containing iron oxide.

The dyestuffs may also be (soluble) dyes, among which may be mentioned those listed in Annex IV, such as D & C red27, D & C red21, D & C orange No. 5, D & C yellow 1 1, D & C green 6, D & C violet 2, Red 4, Red 6, D & C Red22, Red 28, D & C Red30, Red 33, Orange 4, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, D & C yellow No. 8, D & C Green 5, FDC Green 3, FDC Blue 1; Beta Vulgaris; Bismuth Oxychloride; Bromocresol Green; Bromothymol Blue; Paprika oleoresin / Capsorubin; Caramel; Cl 10006; Cl 10020; Cl 10316, CI 1 1920; Cl 12010; Cl 12150; Cl 12700; Cl 13015; Cl 14270; Cl 14700; Cl 14720; Cl 14815; Cl 15620; Cl 15980; Cl 15985; Cl, 16035; Cl 16185; Cl 16230; Cl 16255; Cl 16290; Cl 17200; Cl 18050; Cl 18130; Cl 18690; Cl 18736; Cl 18820; Cl 18965; Cl 19140; Cl 20170; Cl 20470; Cl 21230; Cl 24790; Cl 26100; Cl 27290; Cl 27755; Cl 28440; Cl 40800; Cl 40820; Cl 40825; Cl 40850; Cl 42045; Cl 42051; Cl 42053; Cl 42080; Cl 42090; Cl 42100; Cl 42170; Cl 42510; Cl 42520; Cl 42735; Cl 44045; Cl 44090; Cl 45100; Cl 45190; Cl 45220; Cl 45350; Cl 45370; Cl 45370; Cl 45380; Cl 45380; Cl 45380; Cl 45396; Cl 45405; Cl 45410; Cl 45425; Cl 45430; Cl 47000; Cl 47005; Cl 50325; Cl 50420; Cl 59040; Cl 60725; Cl 60730; Cl 61565; Cl 61570; Cl 61585; Cl 62045; Cl 73015; Cl 73900; Cl 75100; Cl 75120; Cl 75125; Cl 75130; Cl 75135; Cl 75300; Cl 75810; Cl 77713; Cl 77820; Cl 77891; Cl 77947; Cl 40215; Cl 74180; Cl 75470; ACID RED 195; Cl 19140; Cl 45370; Cl 47005; Cl 75810; Cl 75810; riboflavin; and their mixtures.

The encapsulated asset may also be a gas, such as air, carbon dioxide or nitrogen; and / or a constituent chosen from cosmetic oils and waxes, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic waxes, and cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, UV filters, perfumes, moisturizers and skincare active ingredients. In general, one can consider any type of encapsulable asset. The capsules may be prepared by interfacial polymerization, in particular as described in EP1837073. They may also be of polyurethane, polyester, polyamide, polycarbonate, polysiloxane, polysaccharide, cellulose, polyether, polyamine, polypeptide, protein, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl acetate type.

They can also be prepared by radical polymerization and be of the C 1 -C 16 alkylpoly (meth) acrylate type, in particular PMMA; or polystyrene or their copolymers.

The capsules may be copolymers of the above types, or mixtures of these polymers.

The capsules may also be totally or partially inorganic, for example of silica, T1O2, ZrO2, alumina, SnO2, iron oxide, or mixtures thereof; they may also be of clay type, sepiolite, montmorillonite, or mixtures thereof.

The capsules can also combine organic polymers with inorganic materials.

The preformed capsule thus prepared, by covalent polymerization, organic or inorganic, must carry on the surface at least one reactive function, which may be nucleophilic or electrophilic, and in particular selected from OH, C = O (carbonyl) and NH ₂ , and which must be able to react with a complementary function carried by the joining group. In the end, the functionalized capsules according to the invention therefore comprise at least one part coming from the preformed capsule, and at least one part coming from the joining group, said part comprising at least one unit of formula (I) or (II). In particular, said parts are connected by a covalent bond, in particular formed during the reaction between the reactive functions carried by the preformed capsule and the reactive functions carried by the joining group.

The joining group that can be used to prepare the functionalized capsule according to the invention carries at least one reactive function and comprises at least one unit of formula (I) or (II) as defined below.

The reactive functional group may be in particular of the isocyanate or imidazole type, capable of reacting with the reactive functions of the capsule, in order to form a covalent bond, in particular of the urea or urethane type, between said capsule and said joining group.

Said linking group is capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joint joining groups, of identical or different chemical nature, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably minus 4 H bonds, preferably 4 H bonds. For the purposes of the invention, the term "linking group" means any functional group comprising H-bonding donor or acceptor groups, and capable of establishing at least three H-bonds, preferably at least four H-bonds, preferably four H-bonds, with an identical or different partner-junction group. For the purposes of the invention, the term "partner joining group" means any joining group capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joining groups of the same or another polymer according to the invention. The joining groups can be of identical or different chemical nature. If they are identical, they can then establish H links between them and are then called self-complementary join groups. If they are different, they are chosen so that they are complementary to the H interactions.

The joining group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (I) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (II), as defined below:

O) (he)

in which :

In particular, the radical R1 can in particular be:

a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent alkylene group, in particular a 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene or 1,6 (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene) group,

1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- , 7-diméthyloctylène).

a divalent C 4 -C 12 cycloalkylene or arylene group, especially chosen from the following radicals: isophorone, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène;4,4-bisphenylenemethylene; or structure:

By -isophorone- is meant the divalent radical of structure

Preferably, R 1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH ₂ ) 6- or 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene.

In particular, the radical R2 can in particular be H, or else:

a C ₁ -C ₃ , in particular C ₁ -C 16 or even C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl group;

a C ₄ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl group;

a C ₄ -C ₁₂ aryl group;

an aryl (C ₄ -C 12) alkyl group having _{1 to 18} carbon atoms

- alkoxy, Ci-C _4;

an arylalkoxy group, in particular an aryl (CrC ₄ ) alkoxy group;

a C ₄ -Ci ₂ heterocycle

or a combination of these radicals, which may optionally be substituted by an amino, ester and / or hydroxy function.

Preferably, R 2 represents H, CH ₃ , ethyl, C 13 H 27, C ₇ H 15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl or -CH (C ₂ H ₅ ) (C ₄ H ₉ ). Preferably, R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-OC (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear alkyl group or branched C ₁ -C 3 ₂ or a cycloalkyl group having ₄ -Ci6 aryl or C ₄ -Ci6; or their mixture.

In particular, R '3 and R' 4 may represent methylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6-di (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4 (4-methylpentylene), 1,5-5- (5-methylhexylene); 1, 6- (6-methylheptylene); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-bisphénylèneméthylène; 1,2-tolylene, 1,4-tolylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene; 1,5-naphthylene; tetramethylxylylene; isophorone.

In particular, R'3 may represent a C1-C4 alkylene, in particular 1, 2-ethylene.

Preferably, R'4 may represent the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

In particular, R3 can be of structure

In a particularly preferred manner, in formula (I), one can have

- Ri = -isophorone-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula:

- (CH ₂ ) 6-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the formula unit

- (CH ₂ ) 6-, R 2 = isopropyl, which leads to the formula unit

Particularly preferably, in the formula (II), R 1 represents the radical - isophorone-, R 2 = methyl and R 3 = - (CH ₂ ) ₂ OCO-NH-isophorone-, which leads to the divalent unit of formula:

Junction groups carrying a single isocyanate function may be of formula:

wherein R1 and R2 are as defined above; and especially :

R 1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH 3) -CH ₂ -C (CH 3) 2 -CH ₂ -CH ₂ , 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3 phenylene; and or

Preferably, the joining groups can be chosen from the following groups:

The joining groups carrying two isocyanate functional groups can be of formula:

wherein R1, R2 and R3 are as defined above, and in particular:

- R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-OC (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear or branched alkyl group; C1-C30 cycloalkyl or C ₄ -Ci2 aryl or C ₄ -C _2; or their mixtures; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1, 2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone. A particularly preferred joining group is that of formula

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the linking groups can be attached to the capsule via the functionalization of the linking group by an isocyanate or imidazole.

According to another embodiment, it is possible to make the reverse reaction by prefunctionalizing the capsule with a diisocyanate.

In a ^1st mode of preparation, the capsule functionalized according to the invention can result from the chemical reaction between a preformed capsule carrying a reactive functional group and a linking group bearing a complementary reactive function. The capsule may be prepared by the methods usually employed by those skilled in the art to form a urethane linkage, between the free OH functions of the capsule and the isocyanate functions carried by the linking group. As an illustration, a general method of preparation consists of:

heating the capsule carrying at least one reactive functional group, in particular OH, at a temperature that may be between 25 and 140 ° C., in particular between 60 ° C. and 130 ° C .;

add the junction group carrying the reactive functions, in particular isocyanate;

optionally stirring the mixture, under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature of the order of 100-130 ° C .; for 1 to 24 hours;

- follow by infrared spectroscopy, the disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band (between 2500 and 2800 cm-1) so as to stop the reaction to the total disappearance of the peak, then allow the final product to return to ambient temperature.

The reaction may be carried out in the presence of a solvent, especially trahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene or butyl acetate. It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst for urethane bond formation. By way of example, mention may be made of dibutyl tin dilaurate. According to the ^2nd embodiment, the reaction may comprise the steps of: (i) functionalizing the capsule by a diisocyanate, and

(iia) or reaction with 6-methylisocytosine:

(iib) or reaction with 5-hydroxyethyl-6-methyl isocytosine:

An illustration of such a reaction is given in FOLMER et al., Adv. Mater, 12, 874-78 (2000).

Preferably, the polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia), or the mixture of such polymers, may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, especially 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic active agent carrying at least one unit of formula (Ia), or the mixture of such active agents, may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 to 50% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 10% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions may also comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or body, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips and nails. They may advantageously comprise a liquid fatty phase, which may constitute a solvent medium for the polymers according to the invention, and which may comprise at least one compound chosen from oils and / or solvents of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonated Hydrocarbons, fluorinated and / or silicoated, volatile or nonvolatile, alone or in combination in that they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and are compatible with the intended use.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile" is intended to mean any compound capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials, or the lips, in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 1 atm). In particular, this volatile compound has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg), whereas by 'non-volatile' a compound remaining on the keratin materials or the lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one hour and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable medium may comprise, in a liquid fatty phase, at least one oil and / or a solvent which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

1 / esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols; advantageously, said ester is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate or has the following formula: R'i-COO-R'2 where:

R '1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and whose hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more a plurality of heteroatoms selected from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions, and

R'2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and of which the hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions.

By "optionally substituted" is meant that R'i and / or R'2 may carry one or more substituents selected, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O and / or N, such as amino, amino , alkoxy, hydroxyl.

Examples of the R'i groups are those derived from preferably higher fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic and isostearic acids. , arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, oleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, R'i is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R ₂ is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 1 1 carbon atoms.

Mention may in particular be mentioned, preferably, the esters of Cs-C ₄ 8, optionally incorporating in their hydrocarbon chain one or more heteroatoms from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions; and more particularly purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate -dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate; and the heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, as well as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate (in particular Eldew-205SL from Ajinomoto); hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; branched C8-C16 esters, especially isohexyl neopentanoate. Hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C ₄ to C 2 ₄ , the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; ; these oils include wheat germ, maize, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, of bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, jojoba, palm, calophyllum; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810®", "812®" and "818®" by the company Dynamit Nobel. 3 / alcohols, and especially C6-C32 monoalcohols, in particular C12-C26, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2 -butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and octyldodecanol; 4 / linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, volatile or not, of synthetic or mineral origin, which may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 5 to 100 carbon atoms, and in particular petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, squalane, perhydrosqualine and their mixtures.

It is more particularly possible to mention linear, branched and / or cyclic C5-C48 alkanes, and preferably branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins); especially decane, heptane, dodecane, cyclohexane; as well as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane.

5 / silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile;

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups. having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms; and in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethylsiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, methylhexyldimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of a silicone chain, each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The liquid fatty phase may further comprise additional oils and / or solvents, which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils;

- oils of animal origin;

ethers at C to C ₄ , especially C ₁₀ -C 40; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether;

- C8-C32 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

- Bifunctional oils, comprising two functions selected from ester and / or amide and comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24 carbons, and 4 heteroatoms selected from O and N; preferably the amide and ester functions being in the chain;

ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone;

aldehydes which are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde;

The liquid fatty phase may represent 1 to 90% by weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, in particular from 10 to 60% by weight, or even 25 to 55% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. .

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a thickening agent which may in particular be chosen from:

- the particular hydrophobic silicas, such as those described in EP-A-898960, for example, under the references "Aerosil R812 ^®" by Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530 ^®", "CAB O-SIL TS-610 ^® "," CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ^® "by the company Cabot," AEROSIL R972 ^® "," AEROSIL R974 ^® "by Degussa;

clays, such as montmorillonite, modified clays, such as benzones, stearalkonium hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite,

polysaccharide alkyl ethers (in particular in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10, better still from 1 to 6, and more particularly from 1 to 3, such as those described in EP-A); A-898958.

The amount of thickening agent in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.05 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 20% and better still from 1 to 15% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax of vegetable, animal, mineral, synthetic or even silicone origin.

In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax can be mentioned alone or as a mixture; Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax; paraffin waxes of lignite; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; the wax of Montan; ozokerites; polyethylene waxes; waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyls, alkoxys and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.

The amount of wax in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, and better still from 5 to 30% by weight. weight.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from pulverulent compounds such as pigments, fillers, nacres and flakes, and / or fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes.

The dyestuffs, in particular pulverulent, may be present in the composition in a content of from 0.01 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, or even from 1 to 30% by weight. By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.

The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, interferential or not. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, blue. ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. We mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon and polyethylene, ροΐν-β-alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride , tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), polytrap (Dow Corning), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite , hollow silica microspheres (SILICA BEADS from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 , yellow quinoline. They may represent 0.01 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still 0.1 to 6%.

The water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice, methylene blue and may represent 0.01 to 6% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition may further include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Such ingredients may be chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, surfactants, gelling agents, spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, antifoams, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers and in particular liposoluble film-forming polymers, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition for use according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition envisaged. The compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition. They can therefore be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion including oil in water with vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a two-phase or multiphase lotion; a spray; a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and especially stick or cup, or compacted solid. Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support. and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used for the care and / or the makeup of keratin materials such as skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips.

They may therefore be in the form of a care product and / or of the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair or the nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product such as a product for shaping hair, cleaning, coloring, protective care, repair, styling. The keratin materials include skin of the body or face, lips, nails, hair, eyebrows and / or eyelashes.

As a first particular embodiment of the invention, the method according to the invention may consist of:

depositing on the hair, at first, an aqueous polymer solution carrying at least two ureidopyrimidone functions, and then

depositing, in a second step, an alcoholic solution of dye covalently bound to a ureidopyrimidone unit;

This process makes it possible to color the hair in a sustainable way.

Polybutylene GI3000 (64%) - ureidopyrimidone-MDEA (9%), neutralized to 100% by HCl and as a coloring agent, may be mentioned as polymer, 2 - ({4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2- Nitrophenyl) amino) ethyl [6 - ({[(6-isopropyl-4-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrimidin-2-yl) amino] carbonyl} amino) hexyl] carbamate.

This coloration is resistant to water.

In another particular embodiment, the ureidopyrimidone dye asset can be displaced and replaced by an ureidopyrimidone non-dyeing active agent in aqueous solution by thermal stimulation (60 ° C.), which results in a disappearance of the color. In particular, it is possible to employ a 10% aqueous solution of N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] -N '- (6-methyl-4-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrimidin-2-yl) urea which can be applied to treated hair.

As another particular embodiment, the method according to the invention may consist in depositing on the hair a hydroalcoholic solution containing both a polymer bearing at least two ureïdopyrimidone functions and a dye covalently bound to a ureidopyrimidone unit used to stain the dye. hair. This coloration is resistant to water.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising, on the one hand, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia), and secondly a second cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetic active carrying at least one a pattern of formula (la) as defined above. The invention is further illustrated in the following examples. Description of the products used

Example A: dye A

The functionalized ureidopyrimidone dye used is a mixture consisting essentially of 2 - ({4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrophenyl} amino) ethyl [6 - ({[(6-isopropyl) -4-oxo-1 , 4-dihydropyrimidin-2-yl) amino] carbonyl} amino) hexyl] carbamate.

Preparation of A:

4 g of 2,2 '- [4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -3-nitrophenylimino] diethanol were dissolved in 75 ml of anhydrous tetrahydrofuran. 4.51 g of N- (5-isocyanatopentyl) -N '- (6-isopropyl-4-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrimidin-2-yl) urea in small quantities were added under an argon atmosphere with stirring. quantities, then 3 drops of dibutyl tin dilaurate (DBDTL). The reaction medium was then stirred at room temperature for 3 hours; the disappearance of the isocyanate function is followed by infrared. After complete disappearance of the isocyanate function, the reaction mixture was filtered through celite and then concentrated by half. The reaction medium was then poured into 800 ml of ethyl ether with vigorous stirring and the resulting precipitate was filtered on sintered glass. It was then dried under vacuum to obtain 7 g of a violet powder with a yield of about 80%.

HPLC analysis coupled to a mass spectrometer shows the majority formation of the desired product [M + H] + = 607 and a residue of starting material and the double reaction product of mass M = 928.

Example A ': Polyurethane Copolymer A

138.95 g of poly (ethylene-butylene) diOH (NISSO GI3000), previously dried under vacuum at 60 ° C. for 24 hours, are mixed with 17.27 g of N-methyldiethanolamine (MDEA) and 25 microliter of dibutyl dilaurate. tin, in solution in 200 g of methyl ethyl ketone (MEK); The mixture is heated at 90 ° C. for 2 hours and a solution of 40.97 g of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) dissolved in 100 ml of MEK is then added dropwise. We then maintained the medium stirring for 8 hours; the disappearance of the isocyanate function is monitored by infrared. 50 ml of ethanol were then added and then evaporated under reduced pressure. 500 ml of ethanol and then 500 ml of water were then added. 12 ml of a 37% hydrochloric acid solution was then added and then stirred for 2 hours. After evaporation under reduced pressure of ethanol, an aqueous dispersion of polymer with 13% solids content was obtained. The polymer was then diluted with water to obtain a 2% solution of active ingredient which will be called polymer A thereafter. Example B Polyurethane B Copolymer

A hydrocarbon random copolymer functionalized with ureidopyrimidone units, transported in water and neutralized to 100% with 23.8% of active material, is prepared by reaction between 101.7 g of poly (ethylene-butylene) diOH (GI 3000 of NISSO Mn). = 3100) previously dried under vacuum for 24 hours at 60 ° C, 25.5 g of isophorone diisocyanate and 13.65 g of N-methyldiethanolamine, dissolved in 180 ml of N-methyl tetrahydrofuran to which 25 microliters of tin dibutyl dilaurate; and heating at 80 ° C for 2 hours under argon. 14.03 g of functionalized ureidopyrimidone isophoronediisocyanate dissolved in 100 ml of N-methyl tetrahydrofuran were then added dropwise. After the addition was complete, the reaction medium was maintained at 80 ° C for 24 hours. The evolution of the infrared reaction was monitored by following the disappearance of the isocyanate peak at 2250 cm ^-1, then allowed to warm to room temperature and then 500 ml of ethanol were added, then 9.57 ml of a solution was added. of 37% hydrochloric acid, then allowed to stir for 1 hour, then concentrated in vacuo to a white paste which was solubilized in a mixture of 500 ml of tetrahydrofuran and 500 ml of 'water.

After evaporation under reduced pressure of tetrahydrofuran, an aqueous dispersion of the polymer was obtained at 23.8% solids.

The polymer was then diluted with water to obtain a 2% solution of active ingredient which will be called polymer B thereafter.

Example C: Hydrogenated α, ω-hydroxy polydiene functionalized with ureidopyrimidone units at both ends

100 g of hydrogenated 1,2-polybutadiene polymer (also called poly (ethylene-butylene)) dihydroxylated (GI3000 from Nisso, Mn = 3100) was dried at 80 ° C. under reduced pressure overnight. This polymer is dissolved in 400 ml of anhydrous toluene. 25 μl of catalyst (dibutyltin dilaurate) are added and the mixture is heated at 80 ° C. with stirring until a homogeneous solution is obtained. 15 g of isocyanate functionalized molecule of the following structure are added: NCO

O

H H

in solution in 300 ml of anhydrous toluene, under a controlled atmosphere at 40 ° C. The reaction mixture is heated to 100 ° C and stirred at this temperature for 4 hours. The reaction is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, followed by the total disappearance of the characteristic isocyanate peak at 2260 cm- ¹ . At the end of the reaction, 100 ml of ethanol is added to remove all traces of isocyanate. The mixture is filtered off after addition of isododecane to make the solution less viscous and the polymer solution is then directly stripped with isododecane.

A solution of the final polymer in isododecane at 21% solids is obtained; the polymer is characterized by GPC (Mn = 6400 and polydispersity index = 1.85) and 1 H NMR (spectrum according to what is expected).

The polymer was then diluted with isododecane to obtain a 7% solution of active ingredient which will be called polymer C thereafter.

Example 1D N- (3- (dimethylamino) propyn-N '- (6-methyl-4-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrimidin-2-yl) urea

Preparation from 6-Methyloctosine and carbonyl diimidazole:

To a suspension of 5 g of 6-methylisocytosine (40 mmol) in 100 ml of ethyl acetate are added 8.42 g of carbonyl diimidazole (52 mmol). The solution is stirred for 12 hours under reflux and then 8 hours at room temperature. 5.03 ml of dimethylaminopropylamine (40 mmol) is added. The solution is stirred for 6 hours under reflux. The final product is obtained by filtration on Buchner. The final product is dried under reduced pressure and 9.6 g (38 mmol) of the pure desired product are obtained in the form of a white powder with a yield of 95%.

¹ H NMR (DMSO): δ 1 .77 ppm (t, 2H), 2.19 ppm (s, 3H), 2.71 ppm (s, 6H), 3.28 ppm (t, 2H), 5.84 ppm (s, 1H)

Example E: Polyurethane Capsules (E Capsules)

In a reactor, 12 g of diphenylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 2.8 g of isododecane are mixed and stirred with ultraturax at 13500 rpm. A solution previously cooled in an ice bath (10 ° C.) comprising 320 g of 5% water of PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) hydrolysed at 98%, added in the presence of 3.4 g of Poloxamer 188 surfactant; it is stirred with ultraturax for 1 hour.

A solution comprising 4 g of diethylene glycol, 1.4 g of pentaerythritol and 80 g of 5% PVA water is then added.

The mixture is mechanically stirred and heated to 65 ° C. Polymerization was followed by light microscopy and then the heating and stirring was stopped after 23 hours. The reaction mixture is centrifuged for 30 minutes; after removing the supernatant, the solid is washed with water 3 times, filtered on filter paper and left for 3 hours in a neutralizing solution of isocyanates. The powder is washed again with water, filtered and dried.

8.87 g of capsules with a hydroxyl number measured at 28 are obtained.

2.84 g of the capsules prepared above are suspended in 6 ml of toluene under argon in the presence of 3 microliters of dibutyltin dilaurate. The mixture is brought to 100 ° C., and 0.44 g of dendron ureidopyrimidone of structure represented below (SupraPolix), previously dissolved in 15 ml of toluene, is added. The solution is refluxed for 22 hours: the reaction medium becomes viscous. The monitoring of the reactivity is done by infrared spectroscopy, with the disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band at 2260 cm ^-1 The capsules are filtered on filter paper, washed three times with 75 ml of CH 2 Cl 2, dispersed in a decontaminant solution, washed with ethanol, refiltered on filter paper and dried.

Dendron:

1.75 g of functionalized capsules are obtained (yield 61%). Hair

The hair used is natural brown hair having undergone a fading treatment leading to an alkaline solubility of 15; the weight of a lock of hair used per test is 0.5 gram.

Example 1

Verification of non-staining of hair strands treated with Dye A alone in a vehicle in which the dye is soluble.

Preparation of the dye solution:

38 mg of 2 - ({4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrophenyl} amino) ethyl [6 - ({[(6-isopropyl) -4-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrimidine) were introduced. 2-yl) amino] carbonyl) amino) hexyl] carbamate (dye A) in 0.5 ml of benzyl alcohol and 0.5 ml of ethyl alcohol and then stirred for 1 minute under ultrasound; 4 ml of HPLC grade water was added to obtain a homogeneous solution. Application on hair:

Before application of the dye, the hair was moistened with water and then shampooed with 0.2 g of shampoo containing 15% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in water and then rinsed with water.

The previously prepared solution (0.0125 mol / l dye A) was then applied to the entire wick placed in a suitable channel for 30 minutes at 60 ° C. After wringing and rinsing with water, no coloration was observed on the whole of the wick thus treated.

Example 2

Verification of the non-staining of hair strands previously treated with the non-functionalized polymer ureidopyrimidone A polymer then application of the Colorant A in a vehicle in which the dye is soluble.

Application on hair:

Before application of the dye, the hair was moistened with water and then shampooed with 0.2 g of shampoo containing 15% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in water and then rinsed with water. 5 ml of solution of Polymer A were then applied to the wick, previously placed in a gutter, for 25 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. The lock was drained and then 5 ml of the previously prepared dye solution A (in Example 1) were applied.

After wringing and rinsing with water, no coloration was observed on the whole of the wick thus treated.

Example 3

Staining hair strands previously treated with a polymer functionalized with ureiodpyrimidone units (polymer B) and then applying Colorant A in a vehicle in which the dye is soluble.

Application on hair:

5 ml of solution of polymer B were then applied to the wick, previously placed in a gutter, for 25 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. The lock was drained and then 5 ml of the previously prepared dye solution A (Example 1) were applied. After wringing and rinsing with water, an intense violet color was observed on the whole of the wick thus treated.

Resistance of coloring with water heated to 60 ° C:

On the hair strand treated higher and placed in a gutter, 10 ml of HPLC grade water was added. The wick was thus maintained for 30 minutes at 60 ° C. After wringing and rinsing with water, an intense violet color was observed on the whole of the wick thus treated.

Example 4

Displacement of dye A by a colorless active agent D Preparation of the solution of the functionalized active agent:

0.5 g of N- [3- (dimethylamino) propyl] -N '- (6-methyl-4-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrimidin-2-yl) urea in 5 ml of water of good quality were added. HPLC, then stirred for 5 minutes to obtain a homogeneous and translucent solution.

Application on hair:

On the hair strand treated in Example 3 placed in a gutter, was added 5 ml of solution of the functionalized asset above. The wick was thus maintained for 30 minutes at 60 ° C. After wringing and rinsing with water, there was a virtually total disappearance of the violet color throughout the wick.

Example 5

Staining of locks of hair simultaneously treated with a polymer functionalized with ureiodpyrimidone units and Dye A in a vehicle in which the dye is soluble.

Preparation of the dye solution:

Same as in Example 1 except that the 4 ml of water was replaced by 4 ml of polymer B

Application on hair:

5 ml of previously prepared solution (containing 4 ml of polymer B, 38 mg of dye A, 0.5 ml of ethanol and 0.5 ml of benzyl alcohol were then applied to the wick, previously placed in a gutter. ) for 30 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. After wringing and rinsing with water, an intense violet color was observed on the whole of the wick thus treated.

Example 6

Staining of hair strands simultaneously treated with a polymer functionalized by ureidopyrimidone units (polymer C) and dye A in a vehicle in which the dye is soluble.

Preparation of the dye solution: Same as in Example 1 except that the 4 ml of water was replaced by 4 ml of polymer C

Application on hair:

Before application of the dye, the hair was moistened with water and then shampooed with 0.g of shampoo containing 15% Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in water and then rinsed with water.

5 ml of a solution containing polymer C and dye A (38 mg of dye A, 0.5 ml of ethanol and 0.5 ml of alcohol were then applied to the wick, previously placed in a gutter). benzyl) previously prepared for 30 minutes at a temperature of 60 ° C. After wringing and rinsing with water, an intense violet color was observed on the whole of the wick thus treated.

Example 7

Films are formed using the supramolecular polymer (polymer C) on which functionalized capsules are deposited ureidopyrimidone (E capsules).

It is found that the deposit formed of the mixture "polymer + functionalized capsules" is insensitive to olive oil unlike the deposit obtained from the film-forming polymer alone or the deposit obtained from the mixture "polymer + unfunctionalized capsules".

Claims

1. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to said materials:

in a second step, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetic active bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia):

The process according to claim 1, wherein the polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) has a polymeric backbone formed from ethylenically unsaturated monomers selected from:

a hydrogen,

a linear, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl group in which is (are) optionally intercalated one or more heteroatoms chosen from

O, N, S and P, said alkyl group being furthermore possibly substituted by one or more substituents chosen from OH, halogens and Si (R ₇ ) (R 8) groups, where R ₇ and R ₈ , which are identical, or different, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or a phenyl group.

a C3 to C20 aryl group;

a C ₄ -C 30 aralkyl or alkylaryl group (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group);

- a C4-C12 heterocycloalkyl group containing one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, P and S, the ring being aromatic or not;

a C4-C30 alkylheterocycloalkyl group, (C6-C6) alkyl,

said aryl and aralkyl groups possibly comprising, intercalated, one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, and / or which may be substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms and Ci alkyl groups; -C ₄ , linear or branched which themselves may comprise intercalated one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P and / or which may be substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I and F), and Si (R ₇ ) (Rs) groups, wherein R ₇ and R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, or a phenyl group. b) (meth) acrylamides of formula CH ₂ = CHCONR ⁶ R ⁵ or CH ₂ = C (CH ₃ ) CONR ⁶ R ⁵ in which R ⁵ and R ⁶ , which are identical or different, have the same meanings as for the groups R ⁴ above. c) the vinyl monomers of formulas: CH 2 = CH-R ⁹ , CH 2 = CH-CH 2 -R ⁹ or CH 2 = C (CH 3) -CH 2 -R ⁹

wherein R ⁹ is hydroxyl, halogen (Cl or F), NH ₂ , acetamide (-NHCOCH 3), -OR 10 where R ¹⁰ is phenyl or C 1 -C 12 alkyl (vinyl ether); -OCORn (vinyl ester) where R represents:

(i) a linear or branched C ₂ -C 12 alkyl group,

(ii) a C3-C12 cycloalkyl group,

(iii) a C3 to C20 aryl group,

(iv) a C ₄ -C 30 aralkyl group (C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group)

(v) a saturated or unsaturated 4 to 12-membered aromatic or non-aromatic heterocycloalkyl group containing one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, and S, (vi) a C 1 to C ₄ alkylheterocycloalkyl group,

said alkyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, aralkyl, heterocycloalkyl or alkylheterocycloalkyl groups being optionally substituted with one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms, and linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups in each of which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, said alkyl groups being furthermore optionally substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups, halogen atoms (Cl , Br, I and F) and Si (R ₇ ) (R ₈ ) groups wherein R ₇ and R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, or a phenyl group. d) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one carboxylic acid (COOH), phosphonic acid (PO 3 H 2) or sulphonic acid (SO 3 H) function, such as those of formula: CH ₂ = C (R ₉ ) - ( _{Z 1} ) _z i - ( _{Z 2} ) _Z 2 -Y

in which

R19 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

-Σi is 0 or 1, preferably 1;

Z 2 is a divalent carbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, linear, branched or cyclic, of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may comprise 1 to 30 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, and P;

z ₂ is 0 or 1, preferably 1; and

Y is a group chosen from -COOH, -SO ₃ H, -OSO ₃ H, -PO (OH) ₂ and -OPO (OH) ₂ . e) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, in particular those of formula:

CH ₂ = C (R ₉ ) - ( _{Z 1} ) _{z 1} - (Z 2) _{z 2} -X in which

- R19, Z1, Z2, Σi and z ₂ have the same meanings as in the preceding formula; and

(i) a hydrogen atom;

(ii) a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C1-C30 alkyl group, which can comprise 1 -10 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, and P;

(iii) an alkylene oxide group of the formula - (R2oO) _y R2i with R20 representing a linear or branched C 2 -C _4, R21 is hydrogen or an alkyl radical, linear or branched C2-C30 and y is between 1 and 250 inclusive;

(iv) R17 and Ris may form with the nitrogen atom a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic ring, comprising in total 5 to 8 atoms, and in particular 4 to 6 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms selected from O , S and N; said cycle being furthermore capable of being fused with one or more other saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic rings, each comprising 5 to 7 atoms, and in particular 4 to 7 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N; ;

X represents a group -R'i ₅ -N-R'i ₆ - in which R'15 and R'i ₆ form with the nitrogen atom a ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, comprising in total 5 , 6, 7 or 8 atoms, and especially 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 heteroatoms selected from O, S and N; said cycle being fusible with one or more other rings, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, each comprising 5, 6 or 7 atoms, and in particular 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms and / or 2 to 4 selected heteroatoms among O, S and N.

3. Process according to claim 1, in which the polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) has a polymeric backbone chosen from polydienes, polyesters, polycarbonates, polyacetals, polyoxyalkylenes, polythioethers and perfluoropolyethers. polyolefins, polyorganosiloxanes, vinyl polymers, poly (meth) acrylics, cellulose derivatives, polysaccharide derivatives, especially ethers and esters.

4. Process according to claim 1, in which the polymer carrying at least one unit of formula (Ia) is capable of being obtained by reaction:

at least one monomer (a) which comprises at least two polymerizable groups, identical or different, chosen from -N = C = O and -N = C = S, or their activated or blocked form;

at least one of the monomers (a) and / or (b) comprising at least one group of junction, capable of forming at least 3 H bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds and more preferably 4 H bonds.

5. Process according to claim 1, in which the polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) is a polymer resulting from the reaction, in particular condensation, of at least one polyalkene polymer functionalized by at least one reactive group. with at least one linking group functionalized with at least one reactive group capable of reacting with the reactive group or groups of the functionalized polyalkene polymer, said joining group being capable of forming at least 3 H (hydrogen) bonds, preferably at least 4 H bonds, preferably 4 H bonds.

6. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer carrying at least one unit of formula (la) has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) of between 1,000 and 3,000,000, in particular 5,000 and 1,000,000. and preferably between 8,000 and 500,000.

7. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic active agent carrying at least one unit of formula (Ia) is chosen from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

the cosmetic active ingredients for the care and / or transformation of the keratinous fiber;

- dyes, including direct dyes and fluorescent dyes;

polymeric hydrophilic chains;

silicone chains;

fatty substances, in particular oils and so-called 'supramolecular' waxes;

- UV filters,

hyaluronic acid,

- capsules;

it being understood that these cosmetic active agents carry at least one unit of formula (Ia).

8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic active is a cosmetic active caring and / or transformation of the keratin fiber of formula (II), and their salts, addition salts, isomers, solvates, especially hydrates, tautomeric forms:

in which :

- R1 and R2, independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -NRR '(with R, R ', which may be identical or different, being H or a linear or branched C1-C12, preferably C1-C4, alkyl radical, and more preferably a methyl or ethyl radical); or a linear, branched and / or cyclic, in C1-C18, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, carbon group which may contain one or more O, N and / or S heteroatoms.

Z represents a monovalent radical chosen from:

(i) a hydrogen atom,

(ii) a C1 to C32 linear or branched (saturated) alkyl radical;

(iii) a C2 to C32 linear or branched (unsaturated) alkene radical having one or two C = C double bonds;

(iv) a C1-C32 alkyl radical substituted with a C6-C10 aryl,

said radicals possibly being substituted by 1 to 8 groups selected from -OH, -OR, -SH, -SR, -SO ₃ H, -SO ₃ R, -SO ₂ NRR ', -COOH, -COOR, -CONRR' -NR-C (O) -NRR ', -NRR' and -N ⁺ RR'R ", with R, R 'and R" = H or C1-C6 alkyl; and the substituents of formula (a) to (h) below:

OSiMe OEt OMe OEt

I ³ II

Si- Me Si- Me Si- OMe Y Si- OEt

I I I |

OSiMe ₃ OEt OMe OEt

(a) (b) (c) (d)

(X = halogen, in particular Cl) and / or said radicals possibly comprising 1 to 8 different groups chosen from, alone or as a mixture, -S-, S (O), SO2, -NH- (or = NH) , -O-, -C (O) -, -C (= NH) -, -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -An ^" (An ^" : anion); or -N = (trivalent).

9. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient is a cosmetic active care and / or transformation of the keratinous fiber. that of formula (III), as well as their salts, addition salts, isomers, solvates including hydrates, tautomeric forms:

in which :

n = 1, 2, 3 or 4;

- R1, R'1, R2 and R'2, identical or different within the same formula, represent H, -OH, -NRR '(with R, R', identical or different, being H or an alkyl radical; linear or branched C 1 -C 12); or a carbon group, in particular linear, branched and / or cyclic, in C1-C18, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, N;

Z represents a multivalent radical (divalent to pentavalent, according to the value of n), chosen from:

(i) a linear or branched, in particular saturated or unsubstituted C1 to C32 hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl); optionally interrupted or substituted, one or more times, with an optionally aromatic C3-C12 (hetero) ring; or

(ii) a carbon radical, in particular C3-C12 hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) (hetero) cyclic, optionally aromatic; optionally substituted by one or more carbon radicals, in particular linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, in C1 to C32;

said radical possibly being:

-

with

- Ra = H or halogen, in particular Cl, or C1-C6 alkyl, and - R 'and R ", identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a carbon radical, linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated, in particular alkyl, comprising 1 to 22 carbon atoms, (i) optionally substituted by a or more groups selected from -SO3R1, -OSO3R1, -COOR1, -Si (oR) _3, -N ⁺ R R ₂ R ₃ or - NR1 R2, wherein Ri, R 2 and R _3, independently of the other are selected from H and C 1 -C 22 alkyl, and / or (ii) optionally interrupted by one or more groups selected from -NH-, -O-, -C (O) - (alone or in combination);

- (ii) trivalent groups:

^R ' ₊

N- - N-

''

10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic active is a hydrophilic chain selected from:

polyamino acids such as, for example, polyglutamic acids, polylysine, polyornithine, polyarginine, and copolymers thereof.

1 1. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic active agent is a supramolecular oil that can be obtained by reaction between:

on the other hand, at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least 3 a reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the oil, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (Ia).

The process of claim 11, wherein the oil is selected from:

(ii) esters and ethers bearing at least one free OH group, and in particular esters and partial polyol ethers, and hydroxylated carboxylic acid esters.

(iii) natural, natural modified, vegetable, hydroxylated oils.

13. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic active is a supramolecular wax that can be obtained by reaction between:

at least one wax carrying at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH, or even anhydride, and

at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 4 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one so-called reactive function complementary, capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the wax, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (la).

14. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic active is a UV filter of formula (Ib) or (Mb):

in which :

n = 1, 2 or 3;

- m = 0 or 1;

and or

Z ₂ is a divalent C 1 -C 32 alkyl radical, linear or branched; monoradical Ai corresponding to one of the following formulas (IIIa) to (XIIa): a) para-aminobenzoate

b) cinnamate, benzalmalonate or cyanoacrylate

x = 0 or 1

Being heard that :

- q = w = x = 1 when Z is not a covalent bond, and

- q = x = 0 when Z is a covalent bond c) benzophenone

d) benzylidene camphor:

Ak = linear divalent alkyl radical saturated C1-C6, preferably C2.

f) s-thazi w = 0;

a / para-amino benzoate:

with X = O or NH

b / cinnamate; benzalmalonate or cvano acrylate (IVb)

Λv - f J

O

H with X = O or NH

c / benzophenone:

d / benzylidene camphor:

e / s-triazine:

w = 0;

p and p 'are independently 0, 1 or 2,

R ⁴ represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical or an optionally substituted C 6 -C 20 aryl radical;

R ⁵ represents a divalent C 2 -C 8 alkyl radical,

15. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic active agent is a hyaluronic acid derivative which comprises both (la) and (Ib) units:

wherein :

- R1 represents OH or a radical -NH-R'-Z,

R2 represents H or a radical -C (O) -NH-R'-Z,

with:

Z is a radical of formula (I):

16. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic active is a capsule that can be obtained by reaction between:

on the one hand at least one previously formed capsule carrying at least one reactive function, especially at the surface, said reactive function being able to be nu- cleophile or electrophile, and

on the other hand, at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 3 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least 3 a reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by said capsule, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (Ia).

17. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia), or the mixture of such polymers, is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight. , especially 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The process as claimed in one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic active agent carrying at least one unit of formula (Ia), or the mixture of such active ingredients, is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01 to 50% by weight, especially 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Kit comprising, on the one hand, a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia), as defined in one of claims 1 to 6 and 17, and secondly a second cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetic active agent carrying at least one unit of formula (Ia), as defined in one of claims 1, 7 to 16 and 18:

20. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polymer bearing at least one unit of formula (Ia) as defined in one of claims 1 to 6 and 17. and at least one cosmetic active agent carrying at least one unit of formula (la) as defined in one of claims 1, 7 to 16 and 18:

(the)